[s-cars] When good Dads go bad (and blow your motor)

brian hoeft qweblog at gmail.com
Tue Jul 8 05:40:07 PDT 2008


Thanks for the words guys. I should have been more specific.. I have another
head in my garage to work with and can hopefully do a weekend swap. I will
definitely replace valve guides,seals, have it decked, likely port&polish,
etc.. Unless I find a great deal on a whole motor I can just transplant,
then have mine to work over top to bottom over a year or so.

What I meant to specifically ask is options for valve springs and maybe
larger valves. Does anybody know what Dahlback uses? Are you guys with over
4/500 HP still on the OE lifters? I already have the rs2 exh. cam.

Ive dealt with dozens of cooked VW/Audi motors in the past and this scenario
typically requires only a reworked head, and though I recognize the
possibility of Toms pessimism :-) I will have to side with Dave for now,
maybe for my own mental sanity..

Are there any good ways of diagnosing the piston rings? Ive only had to
rebuild a handful of bottom ends due to obvious failures.





On 7/8/08, Floyd Noel <floyd.noel at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Also, I have a good engine (still in a 93 S4) that desperately needs
> to leave my garage soon. If only I had time/money....
>
> R/S
> Floyd Noel
> Sgt, United States Marine Corps
> Recruiter for Marin County, California
>
> On Jul 7, 2008, at 19:35, djdawson2 at aol.com wrote:
>
> > Exactly... it did turn over.? In my experience, a serious overheat
> > usually results in the engine quitting prior to any bottom end
> > damage.? I used to work on a fleet whose forklift operators would
> > essentially run them until the cooling system was dry... and the
> > engine would quit.? With those engines (cast iron top and bottom
> > ends, Nissan) they wouldn't even blow headgaskets.
> >
> > The Audi head will warp and blow the gasket.? The big risk (again,
> > in my opinion) is that the head actually cracked.? Other than that,
> > I think he should be able to put it back together without too much
> > trouble.
> >
> > Yes, long western commutes are my middle name.? 70k worth on the old
> > UrS/GT30R ride... lots of tickets? ;)
> >
> > Dave
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Tom Green <trgreen at comcast.net>
> > To: djdawson2 at aol.com
> > Cc: s-car-list at audifans.com; qweblog at gmail.com
> > Sent: Mon, 7 Jul 2008 7:05 pm
> > Subject: Re: [s-cars] When good Dads go bad (and blow your motor)
> >
> >
> > I would ad this to the equation, Brian. ?Eager buyer just waiting to
> > buy your old engine.
> >
> >
> >
> > I assume you want it for your daily driver for commutes to Montana
> > and Washington, Dave?
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Neither of us has seen the engine, Dave, but the "he drove it until
> > it was dead" doesn't sound like
> >
> > a good starting place. ? Of course, it did turn over... ?:-)
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Tom
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > On Jul 7, 2008, at 8:22 PM, djdawson2 at aol.com wrote:
> >
> >
> > And when you replace that engine, be sure to let me know and I'll
> > take the old one "off your hands."?
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Tom Green <trgreen at comcast.net>
> > To: s-car-list <s-car-list at audifans.com>; brian hoeft <qweblog at gmail.com
> > >
> > Sent: Mon, 7 Jul 2008 6:09 pm
> > Subject: Re: [s-cars] When good Dads go bad (and blow your motor)
> >
> >
> >
> > I think Dave is putting you on the right track, but I think he is too
> > optimistic here.
> > When you suffer extreme meltdown as it appears happened in this case,
> > there
> > are always unforeseen issues that appear later, i.e., lower end
> > bearing damage,
> > piston damage, oil passage clogging, especially from coking at the
> > turbo, and
> > the myriad of cooling and oil hoses overheated from the episode that
> > won't show
> > immediate damage but can fail catastrophically causing the same
> > problem you
> > just fixed.  Or, you are left with little things always going wrong,
> > and some times
> > you just can't seem to find the source of the problem.
> >
> > My choice would be #1 replace car.  If that is not appealing, then #2
> > is replace
> > engine and all accessories attached to it except a/c.
> >
> > Tom
> >
> >> Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2008 16:03:20 -0400
> >> From: "brian hoeft" <qweblog at gmail.com>
> >> Subject: [s-cars] When good Dads go bad (and blow your motor)
> >> To: liSt <s-car-list at audifans.com>
> >> Message-ID:
> >>  <f6c947d20807071303p45567d8cg41071f4eb2c78cab at mail.gmail.com>
> >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
> >>
> >> So I left my car at my families house since Im doing a 1JZ('91
> >> Supra) swap
> >> for a friend of my dad. He(my dad) claims to have needed to use my
> >> car since
> >> he couldnt fit equipment in his trunk this weekend.
> >>
> >> Then, while driving, the water temp/level light began to flash. I
> >> told him
> >> the fuel guage was flaky previously and not to worry about it so
> >> long as the
> >> trip odo didnt near 300. .. I guess he took that as ignore all
> >> warning lamps
> >> and press on..
> >>
> >> Well.. he drove it until it was dead. When I went to check it out
> >> on the
> >> side of the highway, on first crank I knew it was at least the
> >> headgasket.
> >> Typical no compression whirring sound and rush of thoughts,
> >> emotions, etc..
> >>
> >> I havent got a chance to take her apart yet but I know Im looking at
> >> minimum, headgasket, but since she'll be that far apart and likely
> >> needed
> >> anyway how much do I work the head? what should I use? Im open to
> >> suggestions on that.
> >>
> >> Yes my dad murdered my S-car, F*CK!F__K!FHACK.. Bad too, the
> >> reservoir,
> >> coolant flange and sensor at the back of the head blew apart.. and
> >> even the
> >> little half moon part of the valve cover gasket popped out.. WTF!?
> >>
> >> -Brian
> >
> >>> Date: Mon, 07 Jul 2008 16:15:11 -0400
> >>> From: djdawson2 at aol.com
> >>> Subject: Re: [s-cars] When good Dads go bad (and blow your motor)
> >>> To: qweblog at gmail.com, s-car-list at audifans.com
> >>> Message-ID: <8CAAE854AFDAC38-938-14F9 at Webmail-mg13.sim.aol.com>
> >>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> >>>
> >>> It sounds like it was overheated to an extreme.? That being the
> >>> case, you might as well have the head rebuilt.? It is probably
> >>> going to have to be milled flat anyway, so taking the time to do a
> >>> valve job and replace the guides and seals would just be common
> >>> sense.? I only hope it didn't crack.
> >>>
> >>> You'll be putting in the steel headgasket, which is good.? I'd
> >>> also consider putting in ARP head studs while doing this job.
> >>>
> >>> Have fun!
> >>>
> >>> Dave
> >>>
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