[s-cars] Wheel Bearing tool?

[Kurt Deschler]

Tom,

You should not need to disassemble the control arm and sway bar. Instead,
jack up the front of the car, unbolt the ball joint, and give the sway bar
a quick push down (with a 2x4). It is a little tricky to get the ball
joint back in, but I find this the easiest way with some practice. I have
done this on my S6, 200, and 5k. I have only done the rears on my B5 S4,
so I can't speak for the front on that yet. Regarding hammering, you only
need to hammer on the old bearing to get is loose.

	-Kurt

On Fri, 9 May 2008, Tom Green wrote:

> Thanks for all the hints, Kurt.  We thank Dave for confusing things
> some for asking  the C4 guys about his B5.  The URS4/6 doesn't
> use any clips to hold the wheel bearing in place and perhaps
> because of that I find the bearings take a lot of force to press in
> place.
>
> The audiworld tech articles all have the guy taking the hub to a shop
> to press out something.  I just don't like the idea of spending a couple
> of hours on a job after buying a special tool set, and then finding it
> doesn't work and I have to pull the strut anyway and use a press.
> Mind you, I don't like to pull the strut tower on the C4 since that
> introduces it's own set of problems for re-assembly of the control
> arm and sway bar, but I am totally against hammering on the
> bearing housing or hub in any manner.  I particularly like the part
> where the "bearing came apart, but I just stuck it back together".
>
> I have seen the original bearings last for 200K so maybe my need
> for the tool is past.  One will have to howl loudly to get my attention
> now.
>
> Baum tools has their own version now with a lot more pieces than
> the generic Harbor Freight  version so the use is becoming more
> mainstream.  If it will cleanly do the job it is certainly worth it to a
> shop but they need a rental program for me.
>
> Tom
>
> On May 9, 2008, at 10:42 AM, Kurt Deschler wrote:
>
> > Tom,
> >
> > I have changed several wheel bearings with one of these tools.
> > IME, you are better off to remove the strut at the ball joint and do
> > this off the car. This will not disturb your alignment and will
> > save you
> > time in the end. The main reason is that will make everything more
> > accessable and easier to control.
> >
> > The knock-off version does not have an adapter to pull the hub (the
> > hub
> > shark may). The easiest approach without an adapter is to secure the
> > bolt to the hub and knock it out with a hammer from the inside. This
> > will cause the wheel bearing to fall apart, but the race can be easily
> > pulled from the hub using either a puller or small prybars on either
> > side (there are flat spots on the hub where you can grab the race).
> >
> > Getting the bearing shell out is the hard part. The circlips that hold
> > it in may be corroded or rusted in place.  It may take some hits
> > with a
> > sledgehammer to get the wheel bearing loose, even if you have a good
> > impact wrench tightening the nut. You don't want to be doing that on
> > the car. You may need to work the bearing in both directions to help
> > free the circlips. Once the shell is out, sand off any rust from and
> > give a light coating of grease.
> >
> > The new bearing goes in without problems as long as you keep it
> > relatively straight. You should use an adapter that only contacts the
> > bearing shell.
> >
> > The hub goes on last. During this step, the bolt must be pulling from
> > the back side of the bearing so that it pulls the hub into the bearing
> > while holding the bearing together. The important thing in this
> > step is
> > not to not pop the races out of the new bearing. Make sure you keep
> > inward force on the hub when you are setting of the bolt to avoid
> > this.
> >
> > I personally have the HF knock-off version, but I would recommend
> > the Schley
> > or hub shark tools if you can afford it, as the quality of the bolt
> > included in the knock-off is not very good.
> >
> >
> > 	-Kurt
> >
> >
> >> Message: 8
> >> Date: Fri, 9 May 2008 09:58:59 -0400
> >> From: Tom Green <trgreen at comcast.net>
> >> Subject: Re: [s-cars] Wheel Bearing tool?
> >> To: s-car-list <s-car-list at audifans.com>, 93urs4 at rovershack.com
> >> Message-ID: <88CA152F-2908-4FD7-8BD0-E6DCD3695901 at comcast.net>
> >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; delsp=yes; format=flowed
> >>
> >> James,
> >>
> >> I guess I am a little slow, but I can't figure out how to remove the
> >> axle
> >> hub with this tool, or how it can be used until the hub is out of the
> >> way.
> >> And then, how to get the hub back in the bearing, all this while the
> >> strut
> >> is still on the vehicle.
> >>
> >> This tool sounds like a great time saver. Can you help with a few
> >> hints?
> >>
> >> Tom
> >>
> >>> Date: Thu, 08 May 2008 12:16:29 -0600
> >>> From: James Shackelford <93urs4 at rovershack.com>
> >>> Subject: Re: [s-cars] Wheel Bearing tool?
> >>> To: Dave Kase <davekase at pdqlocks.com>, S-Cars
> >>> 	<s-car-list at audifans.com>
> >>> Message-ID: <C4489F9D.11C9%93urs4 at rovershack.com>
> >>> Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="US-ASCII"
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> Dave,
> >>>
> >>> Get the hub shark knock-off from Harbor Freight.  It worked like a
> >>> charm on
> >>> my wheel bearings.... I think it's about $60-70.  Handy tool to add
> >>> to the
> >>> collection.
> >>>
> >>> James
> >>>
> >>> On 5/8/08 11:40 AM, "Dave Kase" <davekase at pdqlocks.com> wrote:
> >>>
> >>>> So the Audi tool is $400+
> >>>>
> >>>> Are there any alternatives?  I am not into making one unless it is
> >>>> drawn
> >>>> up already.
> >>>>
> >>>> Or should I just suck it up and take it to the shop?  What's the
> >>>> going
> >>>> rate to R&R a wheel bearing?
> >>>>
> >>>> Dave Kase
>
>
>