[s-cars] Rear Calipers

[Mtgadbois at aol.com]

Gents,
 
What I do when the brake pistons do not want to fully retract is to  open the 
bleeder screw.  I do this for fronts and rears.  BTW, I use  the Harbor 
Freight tool - picked it up for $30.
 
Mark near Chicago
 
Prior messages:
Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2008 12:57:12 +0000
From: "Wylie Bean"  <theringmeister at triad.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [s-cars] Rear  Calipers
To: "W. Bean" <theringmeister at triad.rr.com>,
s-car-list-bounces at audifans.com,     "Jack Walker"
<jack at walkerperformancegroup.com>
Cc: urq at audifans.com,  S-CAR-List at audifans.com
Message-ID:
<405872466-1220619443-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-248610419- at bxe1
53.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Jack forgive me for  not having had the effects of my coffee kick in yet.  I 
misread part of  your post. You said the tool broke, not the center pin of the 
caliper. At that  point i'd definitely remove the piston and see what's going 
on. If the boot  was/is torn and there's dirt or rust in there then it may be 
frozen in place and  indeed be time for the giant parts heap in the sky. 

Sorry for the  confusion. 

Wylie Bean
90 cq
91 90q20v
92 UrS4
01  allroad

-----Original Message-----
From: "W. Bean"  <theringmeister at triad.rr.com>

Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2008 8:29:24 
To:  Jack Walker<jack at walkerperformancegroup.com>
Cc:  <urq at audifans.com>; <S-CAR-List at audifans.com>
Subject: Re:  [s-cars] Rear Calipers


Jack,
If you're using the correct type of  tool to retract the caliper piston and 
it won't go back, then I'd suggest  removing the piston altogether and checking 
the inner face of the caliper and  the face of the piston for rust or 
degradation.  Somewhere I read (Bentley  maybe, or was it the insert with the caliper 
boots?  who knows, anyway)  that if there's is either, then the caliper 
should be replaced.  I rebuilt  my cq rear calipers last year with new boots for 
the piston and guide pins, and  re-greased the assemblies and it was not that 
difficult.  Removing the  piston simply means rotating it counter-clockwise such 
that it unscrews itself  from that center shaft.  If you bent the shaft was 
it a result of trying to  push the piston back in without turning it at the 
same time?  The $35 brake  caliper retraction tool that Harbor Freight sells has 
paid for itself 10 times  over.  The little pin was sheared off and eventually 
came out of mine after  about 5 brake jobs, but that was easily fixed ($2 and 
a small amount of  dremel/filing) and it's probably better than new now, and 
it's been used another  5 or 6 times since.

---- Jack Walker  <jack at walkerperformancegroup.com> wrote: 
> I?m in the position of  placing the Ur S4/6 rear calipers/rotors as an
upgrade to my 83 UrQ. I?ve  read with interest the rebuild notes published on
one of the lists for rear  calipers, although I can?t remember exactly where
it is right now. At what  point should I consider the calipers written off,
as unserviceable and buy  something new or already rebuilt? Which was the
recommendation of a shop I  took them too to have them wound back?which they
wouldn?t do?not that I fault  them for not doing it!



I don?t have any of the tools to properly  do the caliper rebuild, but am not
opposed to getting them, a guy can always  have more tools..; ^) 



But, I?ve tried to wind back the calipers  with a wind back tool and it bent
the metal rod that?s supposed to twist the  piston as it is compressed and
wound back into the caliper body. So I must be  doing something wrong? I?ve
got like 4 of the rear calipers as parts to mess  around with and they all
seem to have the same problem, so it?s got to be  me!





Jack  Walker

HYPERLINK
"mailto:jack at walkerperformancegroup.com"jack at walkerperformancegroup.com






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--
Wylie  Bean
TheRingmeister at triad.rr.com
90 cq
91 90q20v sport
92 UrS4
01  allroad


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