[s-cars] Rear Calipers

[Jerry Scott]

Here's what works for me.  Before applying the tool, spray the piston with 
penetrating oil.  Then using a 1 in. wood dowel about 6 inches long, place 
it against the piston and give it a sharp blow with a hammer two or three 
times.  This usually break it loose, so that the rotate tool will work.
Jerry
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jack Walker" <jack at walkerperformancegroup.com>
To: <S-CAR-List at audifans.com>; <urq at audifans.com>
Sent: Friday, September 05, 2008 9:43 AM
Subject: Re: [s-cars] Rear Calipers


> Thanks for all the responses, and some terrific advice.
>
>
>
> Since I initially posted, I've found the Lucas publication #XZB137, which
> combined with the advice presented by members of the forums is going to 
> give
> me more than enough confidence to dive into refurbishing the calipers. I
> found ECS has them for like $199 and I would be refunded $100 when I sent
> back my cores. So, in light of this may not be the best price I'll wager I
> can sure buy a lot of seal kits for $99.
>
>
>
> Sorry I guess I didn't make enough note of the fact I WAS using a wind 
> back
> tool to pressure and rotate the piston!
>
> And that the rod that goes through the threaded shaft bent while trying to
> rotate the piston. Current advice is to pressure the piston and rotate the
> piston with a set of channel locks, just haven't done it yet, because my
> channel locks were on my sailboat!
>
>
>
> Interestingly enough one of my 4 caliper's pistons doesn't have any 
> notches
> to engage the wind back tool tabs.
>
>
>
> Jack Walker
>
>   _____
>
> From: Rich Assarabowski [mailto:konecc at snet.net]
> Sent: Friday, September 05, 2008 8:05 AM
> To: Rbade12; Jack Walker; S-CAR-List at audifans.com; urq at audifans.com
> Subject: Re: [s-cars] Rear Calipers
>
>
>
> You need to use a brake retraction tool with two "pegs" that engage the
> slots in the piston, so you turn and push at the same time.   Your local
> AutoZone should be able to rent you their caliper tools, it's made by 
> "OEM"
> (P/N 27111).  Use the appropriate disk that mates with the piston.
>
>
>
> The hand brake cam should be well-lubricated, you can disassemble the 
> spring
> and pull out the shaft and clean the rust before regreasing.
>
>
>
> -- Rich A.
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Rbade12 <rbade12 at aol.com>
> To: Jack Walker <jack at walkerperformancegroup.com>; 
> S-CAR-List at audifans.com;
> urq at audifans.com
> Sent: Friday, September 5, 2008 10:42:35 AM
> Subject: Re: [s-cars] Rear Calipers
>
> I always have a heck of a time screwing pistons in, even with the "proper"
> tool. Was the tool mated to the piston well enough that it was turning it 
> as
> pressure was applied? I've found that a well placed c-clamp and a big 'ol
> channel locks carefully applied to the piston works well. I assume the
> caliper is off the car, therefore the e-brake isn't engaged.
> Your experience could differ, but, I once bought a set of rebuilt calipers
> and a couple years later they started acting wacky, so, I took them apart,
> there was barely any grease on both e-brake mechanisms. and one piston was
> pretty badly pitted. Since I've been a rebuilder, the hardest part of 
> which
> are the circlips that are inside the caliper. [I alterd a lock ring tool 
> to
> reach inside]. Try turning the piston again, unless it's really corroded
> it'll turn.
>
> Bob    91 200q20v
>
>
>
> In a message dated 09/05/08 00:33:58 Central Daylight Time, HYPERLINK
> "mailto:jack at walkerperformancegroup.com"jack at walkerperformancegroup.com
> writes:
> But, I?ve tried to wind back the calipers with a wind back tool and it 
> bent
> the metal rod that?s supposed to twist the piston as it is compressed and
> wound back into the caliper body. So I must be doing something wrong? I?ve
> got like 4 of the rear calipers as parts to mess around with and they all
> seem to have the same problem, so it?s got to be me!
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