[s-cars] RS2 Turbo install
Sean Douglas
s_douglas at telus.net
Thu May 7 19:44:21 PDT 2009
Hi Brian:
The shorter studs are an European spec part number and would be difficult to
find in the US. The standard studs are M8x35, which are available from any
dealer or in the aftermarket. All you have to do is cut them down to 27 mm.
For the record, the 27 mm stud is N 906 486 01 and the 35 mm stud is N 906
889 02.
Sean
> -----Original Message-----
> From: s-car-list-bounces at audifans.com
> [mailto:s-car-list-bounces at audifans.com] On Behalf Of brian hoeft
> Sent: May 7, 2009 9:16 AM
> To: liSt
> Subject: Re: [s-cars] RS2 Turbo install
>
>
> Hi listers, in searching before i ask, this is the closest
> post i found.
>
> I was hoping to get a specific part number for the short rs2
> EM studs. I am aware i could cut to fit but would rather have
> new& 034's kit would take more days then im willing to
> sacrifice at this point.
>
> if you can help, thanks, -brian
>
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> ...
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> On Sat, Jan 14, 2006 at 12:26 PM, Sean Douglas
> <quattro20v at telus.net> wrote:
>
> > Mike:
> >
> > I did the RS2 conversion about 2 years ago. Plan on a
> weekend and take
> > your time, I did mine in about 12 hours spread over 2 days.
> >
> > To answer your specific questions, mine came with new studs for the
> > turbo. Its not listed as a separate part, but you should be able to
> > source something from a local metric supplier, it's a 10mm stud.
> > Perhaps you could just buy some high grade bolts and cut it down to
> > the correct size.
> >
> > For the rest of the parts needed, I will forward a spreadsheet file
> > with all the part numbers you need. Some items can be
> re-used, but I
> > elected to use all new hardware.
> >
> > For tools, you will need a good stud remover to remove the
> EM studs,
> > don't cheap-out on this. I used a Facom stud remover, it
> also installs
> > them too without damage to the threads. Soak everything with PB
> > Blaster or Wurth Rost off the night before. Also, you will need to
> > fabricate some custom wrenches as per below.
> >
> > The following is a write-up that was posted to the s-car
> list in 1997
> > by Jerry Scott.
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > Sean Douglas
> >
> > ------------
> >
> > Here's a write-up that I did back in 1997 for the RS2
> manifold install
> > in a 93 S4. This might be helpful in your attempt, in
> addition to the
> > one just posted by Bill Mahoney.
> >
> >
> > The replacement of the standard manifold with the RS2 manifold is a
> > somewhat difficult task, but is reasonably capable by
> anyone who has
> > done mechanical auto work previously, and by someone who has a
> > complete set of standard metric wrenches, metric sockets,
> metric allen
> > wrenches, and a Mapp gas torch. You will also need a floor jack, a
> > bench grinder, and a mechanic's trouble light. If you take
> your time,
> > and are not frustrated by difficult to reach nut and bolt
> locations,
> > you will find it a rewarding challenge. Three standard
> wrenches, (one 15 mm.
> > combination, and two 12 mm. combination) will need to be
> modified by
> > grinding and bending, to accomplish the task. The wrenches
> were about
> > $3.00 each.
> >
> > 1) Start by jacking up the car on the driver's side, (at the lift
> > point under the front door), and remove the plastic bottom cover by
> > turning with a screw driver, 8 quarter-turn screws. You may
> > alternately want to run the front of the car up on ramp stands,
> > instead of using a floor jack.
> >
> > 2) Drain the radiator of coolant from the plastic valve at
> the bottom
> > of the radiator on the driver's side, into a container. This is
> > necessary since you will need to disconnect two water lines
> from the turbo.
> > Alternately, you may try to catch the coolant in a bucket under the
> > car, when you disconnect the turbo water lines, in a later
> step. The
> > engine should be cool before starting this procedure.
> >
> > 3) Remove the plastic air filter cover by lifting and
> snapping it off
> > from the inboard side. Remove the air filter box by flipping 4 wire
> > buckles, then disconnect a wiring connector by removing the wire
> > retainer and pulling the connector off. Loosen the airbox
> air intake
> > hose at the hose clamp, then remove the airbox and filter
> from the car.
> >
> > 4) Remove the four nuts holding the waste gate to the
> manifold. Then
> > remove the three nuts and bolts aft of the expansion bellows pipe,
> > where it connects to the exhaust pipe. During reassembly,
> the gasket
> > at this joint will need to be replaced, or if it is not
> damaged, can be reused.
> > Remove the air control line to the waste gate (one bolt).
> Put a piece
> > of masking tape over the end of the bolt to keep from
> loosing the bolt
> > and washer. This will now allow the waste gate assembly to
> be removed.
> > Note that there is no gasket where the waste gate detaches
> from the manifold.
> > This is a metal to metal fit.
> >
> > 5) Remove the four nuts where the exhaust pipe connects to the hot
> > sections of the turbo. The bottom of these 4 nuts is
> smaller (15 mm)
> > than the other three 17 mm nuts, and is a little difficult
> to remove.
> > It is the only one of the four with a washer. Use a 15 mm
> combination
> > wrench at the box end. Heat and bend the wrench about 1.5
> in. from the
> > box end, with a 15 degree offset to clear the engine mount. Use an
> > acetylene torch or Mapp gas torch (Sears), and a vise to
> heat and bend
> > the wrench. A propane torch may not be hot enough. Buy an
> inexpensive
> > forged steel wrench from Checker Auto for this purpose,
> (approximately:
> > $3.00). You may need to use a pry bar against the wrench to get the
> > nut to break loose. Remove the four lines to the turbo, two
> at the top
> > and two at the bottom. You will lose some antifreeze when
> you loosen
> > the bottom lines, if you have not drained the radiator
> earlier. Tape
> > the lower oil line with masking tape to keep debris out of
> this line
> > while you are cleaning the gasket areas. There is a gasket
> on one line
> > at the top and one line at the bottom of the turbo, that
> will need to
> > be scraped clean and replaced, during reassembly. Do not use any
> > gasket sealer when replacing these lines. One of the bottom
> lines will
> > require removal of two bolts, with a 5 mm metric allen wrench.
> >
> > 6) Remove the four nuts holding the turbo to the manifold.
> The gasket
> > at this joint should be replaced when reassembling. Note
> orientation
> > of which side of the gasket is against the turbo.
> >
> > 7) Jack up the car under the front door at the lift point, on the
> > passenger side; go under the car, and disconnect the
> exhaust pipe on
> > the passenger side, just forward of the catalytic converter, by
> > removing 3 nuts and bolts. If these are rusted, you may need to
> > hacksaw these bolts to remove them, then replace them at your Audi
> > dealer. Do not lose the steel ring gasket that will fall out. Lower
> > the jack and jack up the driver's side of the car, then loosen the
> > three bolts on the exhaust pipe on this side of the car. It is only
> > necessary to loosen these bolts.
> >
> > 8) It is now possible to pull the exhaust pipe back to
> clear the turbo
> > studs. It is helpful to hold the pipe back with a webbing strap and
> > buckle. Attach it to the exhaust pipe and to the steering
> damper rod,
> > then pull it tight.
> >
> > 9) Remove the large air input hose at the forward end of
> the turbo by
> > loosening the hose clamp, and pulling the hose forward.
> There is also
> > a small air hose at the forward end of the turbo that will
> need to be
> > removed, by loosening a hose clamp. Disconnect the
> crankcase breather
> > hose at the valve cover, by loosening a clamp and pulling it back.
> > Loosen the clamp for the turbo output hose, which is at the
> front and
> > lower part of the turbo. This hose will not disconnect
> until you lift
> > out the turbo assembly.
> >
> > 10) The turbo assembly can now be removed by first clearing the
> > manifold studs, pulling it out of the rubber output hose,
> then by lifting it out.
> >
> > 11) Remove the 16 stud nuts and washers from the manifold
> with a 12 mm
> > deep socket ratchet wrench. Remove the exhaust manifold and gasket.
> >
> > 12) The RS2 manifold requires that four studs be removed
> and replaced
> > with shorter studs. A diagram supplied with the manifold
> shows which
> > studs are to be removed. Make sure that you remove the
> correct studs.
> > The studs to be removed are: top row, # 6 counting from the
> front, and
> > bottom row, # 4, 5, and 6 counting from the front. These
> studs can be
> > removed with a Sears Craftsman 4458P stud remover. This
> tool grips the
> > stud with a camed serrated wheel, which bites into the stud
> threads.
> > The studs are not reusable after removal.
> >
> > 13) Now install the 4 shorter studs, with the shorter thread length
> > going into the cylinder head, and the longer thread
> outward. Use two
> > of the 12 mm nuts, jammed together on the stud to drive it into the
> > head, with a 12 mm socket. Make sure that it is fully
> seated against
> > the stud shoulder, then remove the two jammed nuts.
> >
> > 14) Place the RS2 manifold over the studs with a new gasket, having
> > the shiny part of the gasket against the engine head. Now comes the
> > difficult part. First put on the three bottom nuts on the
> short studs.
> > Do not reuse the copper washers on these three nuts. If you do, the
> > thread locking part of the nut will not have enought
> engagement on the
> > stud, and the nut may later work loose. Now put all of the
> other nuts
> > on loosely, all with the copper washers. You will need to
> tighten the
> > three bottom short studs first. These three studs will be
> difficult to
> > tighten and will require tools to be modified, due to the small
> > clearance around the nuts. Buy two 12 mm forged steel combination
> > wrenches from Checker Auto, or your local auto store, for
> approximately $3.00 each.
> >
> > 15) For studs # 4 and 5, use an open end 12 mm combination
> wrench that
> > has had the open end ground down with a bench grinder, to a .855 in.
> > outside width, then thickness of the open end ground down
> to .180 in.,
> > and the handle bent at approximately 10 deg. offset, 1.75
> in. from the
> > end of the open end. The bending can be accomplished again with an
> > acetylene torch or a Sears Mapp gas bottle torch, and a
> vise. You will
> > need to custom grind the wrench and try it until it fits
> over the two
> > nuts.
> >
> > 16) For stud # 6 bottom row, (the most difficult to
> tighten), you will
> > need to grind another 12 mm combination wrench, to remove
> some of the
> > outer metal around the outside of the box end. Grind it
> down as far as
> > you can go without cutting through the box ring,
> (approximately .650 in.
> > diameter). Now grind down the thickness of the box ring to
> about .225
> > in.. Put the box end in a vise, heat and bend the handle at
> 90 deg.,
> > about 1.5 in. from the end of the box end. Keep trying the
> wrench on
> > the nut by looking through the hole in the manifold casting, and by
> > making grinding adjustments as necessary, until it fits
> over the nut.
> >
> > 17) First, use the modified open end wrench to tighten # 4,
> then # 5,
> > bottom row. Next tighten # 6, bottom row, by using the modified box
> > wrench with a large square shanked screw driver, then twisted the
> > wrench in the open end, like a t-handle. Tighten the top #6
> nut with
> > an open end 12 mm wrench, and the remaining nuts with a 12 mm deep
> > socket ratchet wrench.
> >
> > 18) The remainder of the reassembly is the reverse of the
> disassembly.
> > Don't forget to add coolant before starting the engine.
> Audi requires
> > a phosphate free, aluminum safe coolant, such as Autobahn sold by
> > Audi, ($14.00/gal.), or Prestone Extended Life 5/100, ($7.00/gal.).
> > The new manifold may smoke for a while after starting the engine,
> > until the machining oils are burned off.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: s-car-list-bounces at audifans.com
> > > [mailto:s-car-list-bounces at audifans.com] On Behalf Of Michael Bess
> > > Sent: Saturday, January 14, 2006 7:39 AM
> > > To: s-car-list at audifans.com
> > > Subject: [s-cars] RS2 Turbo install
> > >
> > >
> > > The new K24 RS2 turbo showed up UPS yesterday and I am
> starting to
> > > gather all the other bits required for the install.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Anyone BTDT experience regarding what I should get
> together to make
> > > this a straightforward install? I assume: Gaskets (EM
> mount, outlet
> > > of turbo, waste gate mount and outlet, oil and water lines).
> > > Another other fittings required? The turbo came naked without
> > > studs, so do I need a new set or can you reuse the ones
> off the old
> > > turbo. P/N's would be a big help as would be sourcing.
> I remember
> > > also seeing something about an oil line restrictor being
> required.
> > > Can someone refresh my memory on that?
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > I'll be using the Lucas-Delphi injectors per the MRC
> recommendations
> > > and their software. Any other comments from the knowledge base?
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Mike Bess
> > >
> > > '95 S6 on the slippery slope
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > S-CAR-List mailing list
> > > S-CAR-List at audifans.com
> > > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/s-> car-list
> > >
> >
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> >
>
>
>
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