[s-cars] RS2 Turbo install

[Douglas Fifield]

Brian,

I have some of the shorter studs left over from my EM install.  Let me
know if you need some.

D.

On Thu, May 7, 2009 at 11:16 AM, brian hoeft <qweblog at gmail.com> wrote:
> Hi listers, in searching before i ask, this is the closest post i found.
>
> I was hoping to get a specific part number for the short rs2 EM studs. I am
> aware i could cut to fit but would rather have new& 034's kit would take
> more days then im willing to sacrifice at this point.
>
> if you can help, thanks, -brian
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> On Sat, Jan 14, 2006 at 12:26 PM, Sean Douglas <quattro20v at telus.net> wrote:
>
>> Mike:
>>
>> I did the RS2 conversion about 2 years ago. Plan on a weekend and take
>> your time, I did mine in about 12 hours spread over 2 days.
>>
>> To answer your specific questions, mine came with new studs for the
>> turbo. Its not listed as a separate part, but you should be able to
>> source something from a local metric supplier, it's a 10mm stud. Perhaps
>> you could just buy some high grade bolts and cut it down to the correct
>> size.
>>
>> For the rest of the parts needed, I will forward a spreadsheet file with
>> all the part numbers you need. Some items can be re-used, but I elected
>> to use all new hardware.
>>
>> For tools, you will need a good stud remover to remove the EM studs,
>> don't cheap-out on this. I used a Facom stud remover, it also installs
>> them too without damage to the threads. Soak everything with PB Blaster
>> or Wurth Rost off the night before. Also, you will need to fabricate
>> some custom wrenches as per below.
>>
>> The following is a write-up that was posted to the s-car list in 1997 by
>> Jerry Scott.
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> Sean Douglas
>>
>> ------------
>>
>> Here's a write-up that I did back in 1997 for the RS2 manifold install
>> in a 93 S4. This might be helpful in your attempt, in addition to the
>> one just posted by Bill Mahoney.
>>
>>
>> The replacement of the standard manifold with the RS2 manifold is a
>> somewhat difficult task, but is reasonably capable by anyone who has
>> done mechanical auto work previously, and by someone who has a complete
>> set of standard metric wrenches, metric sockets, metric allen wrenches,
>> and a Mapp gas torch. You will also need a floor jack, a bench grinder,
>> and a mechanic's trouble light. If you take your time, and are not
>> frustrated by difficult to reach nut and bolt locations, you will find
>> it a rewarding challenge. Three standard wrenches, (one 15 mm.
>> combination, and two 12 mm. combination) will need to be modified by
>> grinding and bending, to accomplish the task. The wrenches were about
>> $3.00 each.
>>
>> 1) Start by jacking up the car on the driver's side, (at the lift point
>> under the front door), and remove the plastic bottom cover by turning
>> with a screw driver, 8 quarter-turn screws. You may alternately want to
>> run the front of the car up on ramp stands, instead of using a floor
>> jack.
>>
>> 2) Drain the radiator of coolant from the plastic valve at the bottom of
>> the radiator on the driver's side, into a container. This is necessary
>> since you will need to disconnect two water lines from the turbo.
>> Alternately, you may try to catch the coolant in a bucket under the car,
>> when you disconnect the turbo water lines, in a later step. The engine
>> should be cool before starting this procedure.
>>
>> 3) Remove the plastic air filter cover by lifting and snapping it off
>> from the inboard side. Remove the air filter box by flipping 4 wire
>> buckles, then disconnect a wiring connector by removing the wire
>> retainer and pulling the connector off. Loosen the airbox air intake
>> hose at the hose clamp, then remove the airbox and filter from the car.
>>
>> 4) Remove the four nuts holding the waste gate to the manifold. Then
>> remove the three nuts and bolts aft of the expansion bellows pipe, where
>> it connects to the exhaust pipe. During reassembly, the gasket at this
>> joint will need to be replaced, or if it is not damaged, can be reused.
>> Remove the air control line to the waste gate (one bolt). Put a piece of
>> masking tape over the end of the bolt to keep from loosing the bolt and
>> washer. This will now allow the waste gate assembly to be removed. Note
>> that there is no gasket where the waste gate detaches from the manifold.
>> This is a metal to metal fit.
>>
>> 5) Remove the four nuts where the exhaust pipe connects to the hot
>> sections of the turbo. The bottom of these 4 nuts is smaller (15 mm)
>> than the other three 17 mm nuts, and is a little difficult to remove. It
>> is the only one of the four with a washer. Use a 15 mm combination
>> wrench at the box end. Heat and bend the wrench about 1.5 in. from the
>> box end, with a 15 degree offset to clear the engine mount. Use an
>> acetylene torch or Mapp gas torch (Sears), and a vise to heat and bend
>> the wrench. A propane torch may not be hot enough. Buy an inexpensive
>> forged steel wrench from Checker Auto for this purpose, (approximately:
>> $3.00). You may need to use a pry bar against the wrench to get the nut
>> to break loose. Remove the four lines to the turbo, two at the top and
>> two at the bottom. You will lose some antifreeze when you loosen the
>> bottom lines, if you have not drained the radiator earlier. Tape the
>> lower oil line with masking tape to keep debris out of this line while
>> you are cleaning the gasket areas. There is a gasket on one line at the
>> top and one line at the bottom of the turbo, that will need to be
>> scraped clean and replaced, during reassembly. Do not use any gasket
>> sealer when replacing these lines. One of the bottom lines will require
>> removal of two bolts, with a 5 mm metric allen wrench.
>>
>> 6) Remove the four nuts holding the turbo to the manifold. The gasket at
>> this joint should be replaced when reassembling. Note orientation of
>> which side of the gasket is against the turbo.
>>
>> 7) Jack up the car under the front door at the lift point, on the
>> passenger side; go under the car, and disconnect the exhaust pipe on the
>> passenger side, just forward of the catalytic converter, by removing 3
>> nuts and bolts. If these are rusted, you may need to hacksaw these bolts
>> to remove them, then replace them at your Audi dealer. Do not lose the
>> steel ring gasket that will fall out. Lower the jack and jack up the
>> driver's side of the car, then loosen the three bolts on the exhaust
>> pipe on this side of the car. It is only necessary to loosen these
>> bolts.
>>
>> 8) It is now possible to pull the exhaust pipe back to clear the turbo
>> studs. It is helpful to hold the pipe back with a webbing strap and
>> buckle. Attach it to the exhaust pipe and to the steering damper rod,
>> then pull it tight.
>>
>> 9) Remove the large air input hose at the forward end of the turbo by
>> loosening the hose clamp, and pulling the hose forward. There is also a
>> small air hose at the forward end of the turbo that will need to be
>> removed, by loosening a hose clamp. Disconnect the crankcase breather
>> hose at the valve cover, by loosening a clamp and pulling it back.
>> Loosen the clamp for the turbo output hose, which is at the front and
>> lower part of the turbo. This hose will not disconnect until you lift
>> out the turbo assembly.
>>
>> 10) The turbo assembly can now be removed by first clearing the manifold
>> studs, pulling it out of the rubber output hose, then by lifting it out.
>>
>> 11) Remove the 16 stud nuts and washers from the manifold with a 12 mm
>> deep socket ratchet wrench. Remove the exhaust manifold and gasket.
>>
>> 12) The RS2 manifold requires that four studs be removed and replaced
>> with shorter studs. A diagram supplied with the manifold shows which
>> studs are to be removed. Make sure that you remove the correct studs.
>> The studs to be removed are: top row, # 6 counting from the front, and
>> bottom row, # 4, 5, and 6 counting from the front. These studs can be
>> removed with a Sears Craftsman 4458P stud remover. This tool grips the
>> stud with a camed serrated wheel, which bites into the stud threads. The
>> studs are not reusable after removal.
>>
>> 13) Now install the 4 shorter studs, with the shorter thread length
>> going into the cylinder head, and the longer thread outward. Use two of
>> the 12 mm nuts, jammed together on the stud to drive it into the head,
>> with a 12 mm socket. Make sure that it is fully seated against the stud
>> shoulder, then remove the two jammed nuts.
>>
>> 14) Place the RS2 manifold over the studs with a new gasket, having the
>> shiny part of the gasket against the engine head. Now comes the
>> difficult part. First put on the three bottom nuts on the short studs.
>> Do not reuse the copper washers on these three nuts. If you do, the
>> thread locking part of the nut will not have enought engagement on the
>> stud, and the nut may later work loose. Now put all of the other nuts on
>> loosely, all with the copper washers. You will need to tighten the three
>> bottom short studs first. These three studs will be difficult to tighten
>> and will require tools to be modified, due to the small clearance around
>> the nuts. Buy two 12 mm forged steel combination wrenches from Checker
>> Auto, or your local auto store, for approximately $3.00 each.
>>
>> 15) For studs # 4 and 5, use an open end 12 mm combination wrench that
>> has had the open end ground down with a bench grinder, to a .855 in.
>> outside width, then thickness of the open end ground down to .180 in.,
>> and the handle bent at approximately 10 deg. offset, 1.75 in. from the
>> end of the open end. The bending can be accomplished again with an
>> acetylene torch or a Sears Mapp gas bottle torch, and a vise. You will
>> need to custom grind the wrench and try it until it fits over the two
>> nuts.
>>
>> 16) For stud # 6 bottom row, (the most difficult to tighten), you will
>> need to grind another 12 mm combination wrench, to remove some of the
>> outer metal around the outside of the box end. Grind it down as far as
>> you can go without cutting through the box ring, (approximately .650 in.
>> diameter). Now grind down the thickness of the box ring to about .225
>> in.. Put the box end in a vise, heat and bend the handle at 90 deg.,
>> about 1.5 in. from the end of the box end. Keep trying the wrench on the
>> nut by looking through the hole in the manifold casting, and by making
>> grinding adjustments as necessary, until it fits over the nut.
>>
>> 17) First, use the modified open end wrench to tighten # 4, then # 5,
>> bottom row. Next tighten # 6, bottom row, by using the modified box
>> wrench with a large square shanked screw driver, then twisted the wrench
>> in the open end, like a t-handle. Tighten the top #6 nut with an open
>> end 12 mm wrench, and the remaining nuts with a 12 mm deep socket
>> ratchet wrench.
>>
>> 18) The remainder of the reassembly is the reverse of the disassembly.
>> Don't forget to add coolant before starting the engine. Audi requires a
>> phosphate free, aluminum safe coolant, such as Autobahn sold by Audi,
>> ($14.00/gal.), or Prestone Extended Life 5/100, ($7.00/gal.). The new
>> manifold may smoke for a while after starting the engine, until the
>> machining oils are burned off.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> > -----Original Message-----
>> > From: s-car-list-bounces at audifans.com
>> > [mailto:s-car-list-bounces at audifans.com] On Behalf Of Michael Bess
>> > Sent: Saturday, January 14, 2006 7:39 AM
>> > To: s-car-list at audifans.com
>> > Subject: [s-cars] RS2 Turbo install
>> >
>> >
>> > The new K24 RS2 turbo showed up UPS yesterday and I am
>> > starting to gather all the other bits required for the install.
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > Anyone BTDT experience regarding what I should get together
>> > to make this a straightforward install?  I assume: Gaskets
>> > (EM mount, outlet of turbo, waste gate mount and outlet, oil
>> > and water lines).  Another other fittings required?  The
>> > turbo came naked without studs, so do I need a new set or can
>> > you reuse the ones off the old turbo.  P/N's would be a big
>> > help as would be sourcing.  I remember also seeing something
>> > about an oil line restrictor being required.  Can someone
>> > refresh my memory on that?
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > I'll be using the Lucas-Delphi injectors per the MRC
>> > recommendations and their software.  Any other comments from
>> > the knowledge base?
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > Mike Bess
>> >
>> > '95 S6 on the slippery slope
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > _______________________________________________
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>> > S-CAR-List at audifans.com
>> > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/s-> car-list
>> >
>>
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>
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-- 
Douglas in MN
95.5 Audi S//6 Avant
73 BMW R60/5 mit Toaster Tank