[s-cars] A4 timing belt change - need help with BTDT

[Theodore Chen]

This is where RTFM came from.  :)  You made a lot of extra work for yourself.

I've done the timing belt on a C4 S4 and a B5 A4 V6.  In both cases, we swung out the radiator support with the radiator and AC condenser still in place.  It doesn't take much time at all, and then you can stand right next to the engine.



----- Original Message ----
From: David Kase <dbkase at gmail.com>
To: Cody Forbes <cody at 5000tq.com>
Cc: S-CAR list <s-car-list at audifans.com>
Sent: Thu, May 13, 2010 11:00:45 AM
Subject: Re: [s-cars] A4 timing belt change - need help with BTDT

Wow, I feel ignorant (more so than than usual even).  What are we talking
about here?  Moving the rad support forward?

I always just removed the rad and took out the rad support center section on
the B3, B4 and C4.  The condenser would swing out and I had all the room I
needed.

I can take pics with the great instructions provided - thanks Cody.

All this will go down when I get the heads back on my Disco - (yeah, I went
"there")



On Thu, May 13, 2010 at 1:23 PM, Cody Forbes <cody at 5000tq.com> wrote:

> It's more than two bolts, but it is cake. It's been a few years so this may
> be imperfect, but:
>
> 1) under pan off
>
> 2) Bumper cover off. 3 T15 Torx in each wheel well hold the cover to the
> fender liner. Two 8mm headed Allen bolts hold the bumper assembly. Access
> them by popping out the foglight grills simmilar to an urS. If the car has
> fog lights you'll need to disconnect the wire to each. Slide the bumper
> forward a bit. Sometimes (usually) they are very, very stuck. If so you need
> to pull outwards on the rear edge of the bumper cover very hard. You'll
> think it's going to break, then pull harder. It'll eventually co-operate.
> Once loose you can slide it most of the way off. Last step is to unclip and
> separate the headlight washer hose. Clamp the line or have a bucket handy.
> Ooh, I just remembered something. B6 a4's had a row of three bolts per side
> holding the upper edge of the bumper cover to the fender and they suck to
> reach.
>
> 3) lock carrier in service mode. You'll need 2 "special tools" which are a
> 8x1.25 thread bolt as long as you can find, 4" minimum, 6" prefered. You'll
> notice the bumper shocks held on by 3 T45 (maybe T50) Torx bolts each, don't
> remove them yet. Near the bumper shock on one side you'll find an extra T45
> torx just like the bumper shock bolts. Remove it and insert the "special
> tool". Near the other bumper shock in a simmilar position you'll notice the
> spot to put the other "special tool". Now remove the bumper shock bolts.
> There's also a T25 or T30 on each side of the car (it's black) and four more
> holding the lock carrier near the fenders (also black). Unplug the headlight
> wiring on each side, but there is no need to pull the headlights. Now grab
> the bumper shocks and pull the lock carrier forward. It'll slide a good bit
> out. If you want more room find whatever is hanging you up and undo it. When
> reinstalling everything make sure the bumper shock bolts land right into the
> marks from before and everything will be aligned properly.
>
> This whole deal should take half an hour the first time, and ten minutes
> every time after that.
>
> I'm moving so my pc is packed away... Somebody should wikify that. Kase
> should take pictures ;-). I'll be doing the t-belt on an allroad in a week
> or so, I'll take pics of that too but the process is essentially the same.
>
>
>
> -Cody (mobile)
>
>
>
>
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