[s-cars] A4 timing belt change - need help with BTDT

[Cody Forbes]

I'll start with saying that you mean "while I prepare to take the  
heads back off my disco" becauseofcourse it's just a matter of short  
time until it needs headgaskets.... again ;-)


"Lock carrier" is the term VAG uses to describe the front bit of car  
the holds the hood latch/radiator/etc. The mid 90's cars are actually  
an oddity to an extent as the old 5000's had it setup so you removed  
the lock carrier as a unit as opposed to the C4 setup where the top  
rail is separate and the rest is sorta pieced together by other parts.  
The new cars (B5, C5, etc) went back to the old setup where it's all  
one big bit that the rad, lights, a/c etc bolts to.

If it weren't for changing the water pump you don't even have to drain  
the coolant.

-Cody (mobile)

On May 13, 2010, at 2:00 PM, David Kase <dbkase at gmail.com> wrote:

> Wow, I feel ignorant (more so than than usual even).  What are we  
> talking about here?  Moving the rad support forward?
>
> I always just removed the rad and took out the rad support center  
> section on the B3, B4 and C4.  The condenser would swing out and I  
> had all the room I needed.
>
> I can take pics with the great instructions provided - thanks Cody.
>
> All this will go down when I get the heads back on my Disco - (yeah,  
> I went "there")
>
>
>
> On Thu, May 13, 2010 at 1:23 PM, Cody Forbes <cody at 5000tq.com> wrote:
> It's more than two bolts, but it is cake. It's been a few years so  
> this may be imperfect, but:
>
> 1) under pan off
>
> 2) Bumper cover off. 3 T15 Torx in each wheel well hold the cover to  
> the fender liner. Two 8mm headed Allen bolts hold the bumper  
> assembly. Access them by popping out the foglight grills simmilar to  
> an urS. If the car has fog lights you'll need to disconnect the wire  
> to each. Slide the bumper forward a bit. Sometimes (usually) they  
> are very, very stuck. If so you need to pull outwards on the rear  
> edge of the bumper cover very hard. You'll think it's going to  
> break, then pull harder. It'll eventually co-operate. Once loose you  
> can slide it most of the way off. Last step is to unclip and  
> separate the headlight washer hose. Clamp the line or have a bucket  
> handy. Ooh, I just remembered something. B6 a4's had a row of three  
> bolts per side holding the upper edge of the bumper cover to the  
> fender and they suck to reach.
>
> 3) lock carrier in service mode. You'll need 2 "special tools" which  
> are a 8x1.25 thread bolt as long as you can find, 4" minimum, 6"  
> prefered. You'll notice the bumper shocks held on by 3 T45 (maybe  
> T50) Torx bolts each, don't remove them yet. Near the bumper shock  
> on one side you'll find an extra T45 torx just like the bumper shock  
> bolts. Remove it and insert the "special tool". Near the other  
> bumper shock in a simmilar position you'll notice the spot to put  
> the other "special tool". Now remove the bumper shock bolts. There's  
> also a T25 or T30 on each side of the car (it's black) and four more  
> holding the lock carrier near the fenders (also black). Unplug the  
> headlight wiring on each side, but there is no need to pull the  
> headlights. Now grab the bumper shocks and pull the lock carrier  
> forward. It'll slide a good bit out. If you want more room find  
> whatever is hanging you up and undo it. When reinstalling everything  
> make sure the bumper shock bolts land right into the marks from  
> before and everything will be aligned properly.
>
> This whole deal should take half an hour the first time, and ten  
> minutes every time after that.
>
> I'm moving so my pc is packed away... Somebody should wikify that.  
> Kase should take pictures ;-). I'll be doing the t-belt on an  
> allroad in a week or so, I'll take pics of that too but the process  
> is essentially the same.
>
>
>
> -Cody (mobile)
>
>
>