[s-cars] Thanksgiving Misadventure

Mon Jan 9 09:32:50 PST 2012

Nope.  TimeSert instructions and video make it very clear they intend for
this to be done "over the fender."  That's how I did it--with a
little drizzle going on to boot!  Took about 50 minutes, at a very slow and
relaxed pace.  Great tool.  Repair feels very secure and permanent.

Will be selling the tool if anyone is considering.  The inserts themselves
are $2.99.  Easy to find on ebay and Amazon, among other places.

Keith

On Mon, Jan 9, 2012 at 12:24 PM, Jerry Scott <jerryscott at wispertel.net>wrote:

> Did you have to remove the head to install the TimeSert kit, or did you do
> it in place?
> Jerry
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: s-car-list-bounces at audifans.com
> [mailto:s-car-list-bounces at audifans.com] On Behalf Of Keith Franchetti
> Sent: Monday, January 09, 2012 9:48 AM
> To: S-Car Audifans; Abe Berman; Robert Rossato
> Subject: Re: [s-cars] Thanksgiving Misadventure
>
>  Hi All-
>
> Just thought I'd report that I seem to be up and running 100% now, though I
> hesitate to say that for fear of angering the Audi gods.  We'll call it
> 97%!
>
> Switched in a newer used OEM coil over the weekend (thanks to some great
> detailed directions from a couple of different listers--thanks!!!).  Not
> many test miles in yet, but no hiccups under full boost now, or coming out
> of slow turns in 2nd gear.  BIG difference.
>
> So, to wrap up, after my Thanksgiving Day disaster that (in addition to
> ruining the holiday for the family), I though might cost me $2-3k in new
> cylinder head--the whole repair only cost the price of the TimeSert kit,
> the
> valve cover gasket kit, and a bit of time.  (Oh, and it also cost me having
> the car hit by the sand truck, since it wouldn't have been parked there if
> not for the tow I needed.)  Well under $300.
>
> Again, many thanks to you all for the invaluable help!
>
> Keith
>
> On Tue, Jan 3, 2012 at 7:51 AM, Mark Strangways
> <MarkS1234 at spamarrest.com>wrote:
>
> > Check you plug wire as well.
> > I had tremendous issuses when I first got my S4.
> > It bucked like a horse under high load.
> >
> > Many dollars and hours later, my mechanic threw the towel in. It was
> > then I started to look at things and by fluke I saw the split rubber on
> the wire.
> > It cause the spark to jump to the cylinder head under high load only.
> > It was the smallest little split, barely visible, but that was all it
> needed.
> > Changed the boots and was finally able to appreciate my new S4.
> >
> > Mark
> > On 2012-01-02, at 4:40 PM, Robert Myers wrote:
> >
> > >
> > > And, the $64K answer is --- the OEM crap WILL go south again and
> > > it's
> > time to just toss the whole P(ile)OS and do a proper upgrade as you
> > suggest, JC.
> > >
> > > Bob
> > >
> > > At 04:21 PM 1/2/2012, JC wrote:
> > >> Keith -
> > >>
> > >> Def suspect that coil.  Pulling apart a coil set is easier than it
> > looks. Start at the connectors - after peeling back the boots, you
> > remove the outer connector housing off the internal rectangular core,
> > then carefully remove each of the applicable pins from the connectors.
> > >> You should then be able to slip the wires out of the wiring looms
> > (although I just went ahead and cut open those wiring sheaths to make
> > it easier then zip tied things up afterwards).  With that you can pull
> > each coil out to be an independent unit and mix-and-match them to get a
> good set.
> > >>
> > >> Of course stock wiring lengths differ so you probably need to
> > solder/splice wires to ensure you have enough length to reach the coil
> > location.
> > >>
> > >> Also if the stock wires are hard and cracking then yes you can
> > >> replace
> > those.  Before I gave up on OEM coils I rewired my entire rack with
> > nice new teflon insulated wire soldered right up to near the coil and
> > covered with heavy duty shrink wrap with internal adhesive (special  kind
> of shrink
> > wrap that basically has a layer of hot-glue type stuff inside it).   This
> > worked very nicely for some time until yet another OEM coil started to
> > go and I got fed up with taking them apart and resoldering.
> > >> I still have 11 OEM coils in the basement and I'm sure there's a
> > >> good 5
> > in there somplace but I don't have the patience to screw around with it.
> > Long live the awesome power of and easy diagnosis of the LS2s &
> Magnecors.
> > >>
> > >> JC
> > >>
> > >> On 1/2/2012 3:58 PM, Keith Franchetti wrote:
> > >>> Update:
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>> The one obvious possible source of my problem is that I'm still
> > >>> using
> > the
> > >>> coil that got damaged (partially melted) on the Thanksgiving Day
> > >>> when
> > spark
> > >>> plug blew out and caused the fire.  (You'll remember I also had a
> > >>> significant valve cover gasket failure causing there to be a LOT
> > >>> of
> > oil in
> > >>> the spark plug bore hole--so that when the plug blew out, there
> > >>> must
> > have
> > >>> been a bit of fire that completely melted the boot, and some of
> > >>> the
> > plastic
> > >>> covering to the coil).  I actually HAVE a spare set of coils all
> > >>> still wired in a loom--though the wiring overall is not in great
> > >>> shape.  I'm
> > at a
> > >>> bit of a loss as to how to replace the one coil.
> > >>>
> > >>> That's where I am right now.  Any thoughts or recommendations?
> Thanks!
> > >>>
> > >>> Keith
> > >>>
> > >> _______________________________________________
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> > >>
> > >>
> > >> -----
> > >> No virus found in this message.
> > >> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> > >> Version: 2012.0.1901 / Virus Database: 2109/4718 - Release Date:
> > 01/02/12
> > >
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