[s-cars] Thanksgiving Misadventure

Mon Jan 9 09:49:44 PST 2012

I am assuming that you did remove the valve cover.

Jerry

From: Keith Franchetti [mailto:skidfranc at gmail.com] 
Sent: Monday, January 09, 2012 10:33 AM
To: Jerry Scott
Cc: s-car list
Subject: Re: [s-cars] Thanksgiving Misadventure

Nope.  TimeSert instructions and video make it very clear they intend for
this to be done "over the fender."  That's how I did it--with a little
drizzle going on to boot!  Took about 50 minutes, at a very slow and relaxed
pace.  Great tool.  Repair feels very secure and permanent.  

Will be selling the tool if anyone is considering.  The inserts themselves
are $2.99.  Easy to find on ebay and Amazon, among other places.  

Keith

On Mon, Jan 9, 2012 at 12:24 PM, Jerry Scott <jerryscott at wispertel.net>
wrote:

Did you have to remove the head to install the TimeSert kit, or did you do
it in place?

Jerry

-----Original Message-----
From: s-car-list-bounces at audifans.com
[mailto:s-car-list-bounces at audifans.com] On Behalf Of Keith Franchetti

Sent: Monday, January 09, 2012 9:48 AM
To: S-Car Audifans; Abe Berman; Robert Rossato
Subject: Re: [s-cars] Thanksgiving Misadventure

Hi All-

Just thought I'd report that I seem to be up and running 100% now, though I
hesitate to say that for fear of angering the Audi gods.  We'll call it 97%!

Switched in a newer used OEM coil over the weekend (thanks to some great
detailed directions from a couple of different listers--thanks!!!).  Not
many test miles in yet, but no hiccups under full boost now, or coming out
of slow turns in 2nd gear.  BIG difference.

So, to wrap up, after my Thanksgiving Day disaster that (in addition to
ruining the holiday for the family), I though might cost me $2-3k in new
cylinder head--the whole repair only cost the price of the TimeSert kit, the
valve cover gasket kit, and a bit of time.  (Oh, and it also cost me having
the car hit by the sand truck, since it wouldn't have been parked there if
not for the tow I needed.)  Well under $300.

Again, many thanks to you all for the invaluable help!

Keith

On Tue, Jan 3, 2012 at 7:51 AM, Mark Strangways
<MarkS1234 at spamarrest.com>wrote:

> Check you plug wire as well.
> I had tremendous issuses when I first got my S4.
> It bucked like a horse under high load.
>
> Many dollars and hours later, my mechanic threw the towel in. It was
> then I started to look at things and by fluke I saw the split rubber on
the wire.
> It cause the spark to jump to the cylinder head under high load only.
> It was the smallest little split, barely visible, but that was all it
needed.
> Changed the boots and was finally able to appreciate my new S4.
>
> Mark
> On 2012-01-02, at 4:40 PM, Robert Myers wrote:
>
> >
> > And, the $64K answer is --- the OEM crap WILL go south again and
> > it's
> time to just toss the whole P(ile)OS and do a proper upgrade as you
> suggest, JC.
> >
> > Bob
> >
> > At 04:21 PM 1/2/2012, JC wrote:
> >> Keith -
> >>
> >> Def suspect that coil.  Pulling apart a coil set is easier than it
> looks. Start at the connectors - after peeling back the boots, you
> remove the outer connector housing off the internal rectangular core,
> then carefully remove each of the applicable pins from the connectors.
> >> You should then be able to slip the wires out of the wiring looms
> (although I just went ahead and cut open those wiring sheaths to make
> it easier then zip tied things up afterwards).  With that you can pull
> each coil out to be an independent unit and mix-and-match them to get a
good set.
> >>
> >> Of course stock wiring lengths differ so you probably need to
> solder/splice wires to ensure you have enough length to reach the coil
> location.
> >>
> >> Also if the stock wires are hard and cracking then yes you can
> >> replace
> those.  Before I gave up on OEM coils I rewired my entire rack with
> nice new teflon insulated wire soldered right up to near the coil and
> covered with heavy duty shrink wrap with internal adhesive (special  kind
of shrink
> wrap that basically has a layer of hot-glue type stuff inside it).   This
> worked very nicely for some time until yet another OEM coil started to
> go and I got fed up with taking them apart and resoldering.
> >> I still have 11 OEM coils in the basement and I'm sure there's a
> >> good 5
> in there somplace but I don't have the patience to screw around with it.
> Long live the awesome power of and easy diagnosis of the LS2s & Magnecors.
> >>
> >> JC
> >>
> >> On 1/2/2012 3:58 PM, Keith Franchetti wrote:
> >>> Update:
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> The one obvious possible source of my problem is that I'm still
> >>> using
> the
> >>> coil that got damaged (partially melted) on the Thanksgiving Day
> >>> when
> spark
> >>> plug blew out and caused the fire.  (You'll remember I also had a
> >>> significant valve cover gasket failure causing there to be a LOT
> >>> of
> oil in
> >>> the spark plug bore hole--so that when the plug blew out, there
> >>> must
> have
> >>> been a bit of fire that completely melted the boot, and some of
> >>> the
> plastic
> >>> covering to the coil).  I actually HAVE a spare set of coils all
> >>> still wired in a loom--though the wiring overall is not in great
> >>> shape.  I'm
> at a
> >>> bit of a loss as to how to replace the one coil.
> >>>
> >>> That's where I am right now.  Any thoughts or recommendations?
Thanks!
> >>>
> >>> Keith
> >>>
> >> _______________________________________________
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> >>
> >>
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