[s-cars] Blower Motor R&R

Theodore Chen tedebearp at yahoo.com
Tue Jan 29 11:16:17 PST 2013


By the way, the replacement OEM heater core from the dealer has plastic end tanks.  It's a real Audi part and has the Audi logo on it along with the correct part number, but the end tanks are plastic.  I asked about all-metal but the parts guy said that was what they use and that was the only kind that the system showed for my car.  Perhaps the all-metal heater cores have been supplanted by ones with plastic end tanks.

It came down to a question of whether I wanted to use a genuine factory part with plastic end tanks, or take my chances with an aftermarket all-metal part.  I decided to use the factory part.


The blower is fine right now.  It was replaced before, as mentioned below, and I didn't want to spend $300 on a new one if the old one was working OK.  I'll check for play but don't know what's normal for the blower. 



________________________________
 From: Theodore Chen <tedebearp at yahoo.com>
To: Bill Mahoney <bmahoney at disk.com>; "s-car-list at audifans.com" <s-car-list at audifans.com> 
Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2013 11:08 AM
Subject: Re: [s-cars] Blower Motor R&R
 
I'm in the middle of that job right now, after finally accumulating enough round-tuits over the past couple of months.  I was spurred into action when I realized the heater core was continuing to leak coolant into the car, even though the car has been parked in the garage the whole time.  Luckily the ECU is dry.


I didn't have too much trouble prying the heater box away from the firewall after disconnecting everything but the coolant hoses.Over the years I occasionally had damp carpet after heavy rains, and I was never able to find anything wrong with the sunroof drains or windshield seal.  Now I realize it's because the SOB who replaced the blower motor (before I bought the car 13 years ago and joined this list) used thick black foam weatherstripping and didn't bother to align it properly or even trim it to the right length. That's right, it's too long and there were about 3 inches of excess sticking out above the heater box.


Is the factory heater box gasket made of rubber or foam?


I managed to disconnect the red and blue plugs after removing the radio.  I could just barely get my hand in there to reach them, but couldn't disconnect them.  I ended up using a long screwdriver to pop them loose.  Not easy but I didn't have to remove the center console.

Next step is to clamp the heater hoses so I can pull the whole assembly out.



________________________________
From: Bill Mahoney <bmahoney at disk.com>
To: "s-car-list at audifans.com" <s-car-list at audifans.com> 
Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2013 10:08 AM
Subject: Re: [s-cars] Blower Motor R&R

Richard,
As stated, disconnect vents left and right under the dash.
If you are just raising the heater box & blower assembly a "little" to remove the blower, the red and blue electrical connectors can probably stay connected.
The rubber duct connector can probably stay in place but check it when you are done.
The only tool you may need is a heavy piece of carpet to place on top of the engine so that you can carefully climb aboard and yank that sucker up.
It will come, but clearance is minimal.
You may ask yourself, "Why not just do the heater core whilst I'm going thru all this trouble?"
Good luck!
Bill~blowin hot heat~m

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