[urq] Ideas for rough running continued - Solved?

Sat Apr 9 12:09:07 EDT 2005

Ed,

According to IST Maint and Adj. Manual, with Throttle closed Ohmeter should
read 0  ohms and open more than 2-4 degrees infinity.  Component failure
would prevent cold timing advance below -3 degrees C and incorrect timing
during vacuum test and fuel pump shutoff at 4k during boost test.

Sounds to me like you've got another problem here.

Ingo
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ed Kellock" <ekellock at gmail.com>
To: "Ingo Rautenberg" <i.rautenberg at waratap.com>; "UrqList"
<urq at audifans.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 09, 2005 11:52 AM
Subject: Re: [urq] Ideas for rough running continued - Solved?

> Thanks Ingo and Frank.  My tach definitely drops to zero due to no
> signal.  I believe that means ignition and it seems the email below
> confirms this from both of your perspectives also.
>
> Following up on Ben's note about the idle switch: mine does click when
> the throttle is closed.  I will check resistance on it shortly.
> Should it be adjusted so it clicks ~just~ as the throttle is fully on
> its stop or shortly before?
>
> I'm also going to pull the igloo and check for binding of the metering
> plate.
>
> Thanks!
> Ed
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Ingo Rautenberg" <i.rautenberg at waratap.com>
> To: "UrqList" <urq at audifans.com>
> Sent: Saturday, April 09, 2005 9:33 AM
> Subject: Re: [urq] Ideas for rough running continued - Solved?
>
>
> > For Ed,
> >
> > Frank de Kat sent me this:
> >
> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > From: "Frank de Kat" <fdekat at sentex.net>
> > To: "Ingo Rautenberg" <i.rautenberg at waratap.com>
> > Sent: Thursday, April 07, 2005 6:32 PM
> > Subject: Re: [urq] Ideas for rough running continued - Solved?
> >
> >
> > > Hello Ingo:
> > >
> > > At 04:35 PM 4/7/05, you wrote:
> > >
> > > >Ah, but it all depends on whether the car is in gear, no?
> > >
> > >
> > > I beg to disagree (But I  think I see what you are getting at!)
> > >
> > > >If the tach drops
> > > >to zero and the car dies one can assume it's either fuel or
> ignition.
> > >
> > > Noo... Tach will only go "all the way to zero" if there's an
> electrical
> > > problem.
> > >
> > > But I may see the crux of your logic:  IF the motor is already
> going very
> > > slow (idle), and the fuel cuts out, the tach will get pretty close
> to
> > zero,
> > > and still be doing it's job (As the motor IS truly going pretty
> slow!) and
> > > be hard to tell it it's AT zero, or NEAR zero..
> > >
> > > So.. Perhaps to help:
> > >
> > > In my experience, if it's an  electrical problem and ign cuts out,
> the
> > tach
> > > will go RIGHT to zero, and perhaps violently bounce back to
> indicated revs
> > > when the ignition returns. Maybe a good backfire too, as the
> ignition come
> > > back on. (In my case, it was a VERY good backfire!)
> > >
> > > I'd think if it was a fueling problem, the tach MAY get close to
> zero, and
> > > only rise in revs again when the motor catches again.
> > >
> > > It would really help to absolutely verify where the fundamental
> problem
> > is.
> > >
> > > Perhaps attach a timing light to see if spark is going away when
> it dies,
> > > vs. fuel?
> > >
> > >
> > > >  If
> > > >the tach drops to zero and the car is in gear, then definitely an
> > electrical
> > > >problem.
> > >
> > > Agreed.
> > >
> > > >   I'm sorry if I didn't make that clear.  My problem would be it
> > > >would run like crap (stalling), I'd depress the clutch and engine
> would
> > die.
> > >
> > >  From whatever the problem was/is, I's assume.
> > >
> > > No matter how you slice it though, running a urq is never
> boring...
> > >
> > > Good luck!
> > >
> > >
> > > Frank de Kat
> > > fdekat at sentex.net
> > > Dundas, Ontario, Canada
> > >
> > > http://www.sentex.net/~fdekat
> > > (To see the "Rally Pictures")
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
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>
>

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