[urq] Ideas for rough running continued - Solved?

Sat Apr 9 14:14:29 EDT 2005

Metering plate not binding.  Wear on tab from pin but no hole.  Top of
metering plate and bowl around it pretty dirty and gummy, now clean.

Started car, same behavior.  Cuts out more initially, then less, then
a bit more, then less, as everything warms to operating temperature.
This routine is repeatable, just not a hard fault to really be able to
troubleshoot.  Still cuts out most often when I close the throttle but
not exclusively; it will still occasionally cutout momentarily with
steady rpm or when I open the throttle.  I know it's ignition cutout
because I do get a light backfire on some occasions.

The throttle switch is used to play with ignition timing, right?  When
it is actually switching, i.e. transitioning from closed to open,
could a flakey signal at the moment of transition cause the ECU to go
wacky momentarily?  Does that make any sense?  Maybe I'm getting too
creative.  I guess I could just replace it (throttle switch) and see.
How much are they?  Availability?

Sure seems to run nicely otherwise.  The exhaust smells really nice in
the first minute or two after a cold start.  You know, like a properly
tuned car with no cat (no cat).  It's just itching to be back out on
the road.

All this cutting out became more pronounced, more repeatable after I
adjust the distributor a few degrees to center the rotor on the notch
(after setting all the other engine timing marks correctly).

Ed

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ingo Rautenberg" <i.rautenberg at waratap.com>
To: "Ed Kellock" <ekellock at gmail.com>; "UrqList" <urq at audifans.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 09, 2005 10:08 AM
Subject: Re: [urq] Ideas for rough running continued - Solved?

> Ed,
>
> According to IST Maint and Adj. Manual, with Throttle closed Ohmeter
should
> read 0  ohms and open more than 2-4 degrees infinity.  Component
failure
> would prevent cold timing advance below -3 degrees C and incorrect
timing
> during vacuum test and fuel pump shutoff at 4k during boost test.
>
> Sounds to me like you've got another problem here.
>
> Ingo
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Ed Kellock" <ekellock at gmail.com>
> To: "Ingo Rautenberg" <i.rautenberg at waratap.com>; "UrqList"
> <urq at audifans.com>
> Sent: Saturday, April 09, 2005 11:52 AM
> Subject: Re: [urq] Ideas for rough running continued - Solved?
>
>
> > Thanks Ingo and Frank.  My tach definitely drops to zero due to no
> > signal.  I believe that means ignition and it seems the email
below
> > confirms this from both of your perspectives also.
> >
> > Following up on Ben's note about the idle switch: mine does click
when
> > the throttle is closed.  I will check resistance on it shortly.
> > Should it be adjusted so it clicks ~just~ as the throttle is fully
on
> > its stop or shortly before?
> >
> > I'm also going to pull the igloo and check for binding of the
metering
> > plate.
> >
> > Thanks!
> > Ed
> >
> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > From: "Ingo Rautenberg" <i.rautenberg at waratap.com>
> > To: "UrqList" <urq at audifans.com>
> > Sent: Saturday, April 09, 2005 9:33 AM
> > Subject: Re: [urq] Ideas for rough running continued - Solved?
> >
> >
> > > For Ed,
> > >
> > > Frank de Kat sent me this:
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > > From: "Frank de Kat" <fdekat at sentex.net>
> > > To: "Ingo Rautenberg" <i.rautenberg at waratap.com>
> > > Sent: Thursday, April 07, 2005 6:32 PM
> > > Subject: Re: [urq] Ideas for rough running continued - Solved?
> > >
> > >
> > > > Hello Ingo:
> > > >
> > > > At 04:35 PM 4/7/05, you wrote:
> > > >
> > > > >Ah, but it all depends on whether the car is in gear, no?
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > I beg to disagree (But I  think I see what you are getting
at!)
> > > >
> > > > >If the tach drops
> > > > >to zero and the car dies one can assume it's either fuel or
> > ignition.
> > > >
> > > > Noo... Tach will only go "all the way to zero" if there's an
> > electrical
> > > > problem.
> > > >
> > > > But I may see the crux of your logic:  IF the motor is already
> > going very
> > > > slow (idle), and the fuel cuts out, the tach will get pretty
close
> > to
> > > zero,
> > > > and still be doing it's job (As the motor IS truly going
pretty
> > slow!) and
> > > > be hard to tell it it's AT zero, or NEAR zero..
> > > >
> > > > So.. Perhaps to help:
> > > >
> > > > In my experience, if it's an  electrical problem and ign cuts
out,
> > the
> > > tach
> > > > will go RIGHT to zero, and perhaps violently bounce back to
> > indicated revs
> > > > when the ignition returns. Maybe a good backfire too, as the
> > ignition come
> > > > back on. (In my case, it was a VERY good backfire!)
> > > >
> > > > I'd think if it was a fueling problem, the tach MAY get close
to
> > zero, and
> > > > only rise in revs again when the motor catches again.
> > > >
> > > > It would really help to absolutely verify where the
fundamental
> > problem
> > > is.
> > > >
> > > > Perhaps attach a timing light to see if spark is going away
when
> > it dies,
> > > > vs. fuel?
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > >  If
> > > > >the tach drops to zero and the car is in gear, then
definitely an
> > > electrical
> > > > >problem.
> > > >
> > > > Agreed.
> > > >
> > > > >   I'm sorry if I didn't make that clear.  My problem would
be it
> > > > >would run like crap (stalling), I'd depress the clutch and
engine
> > would
> > > die.
> > > >
> > > >  From whatever the problem was/is, I's assume.
> > > >
> > > > No matter how you slice it though, running a urq is never
> > boring...
> > > >
> > > > Good luck!
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Frank de Kat
> > > > fdekat at sentex.net
> > > > Dundas, Ontario, Canada
> > > >
> > > > http://www.sentex.net/~fdekat
> > > > (To see the "Rally Pictures")
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
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>
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