[urq] (Not) Rod Knock!
Brandon Rogers
brogers at terrix.com
Mon Jun 6 16:56:47 EDT 2005
When I did my 10V head rebuild a few years back we attached the IM, EM,
turbo, and DP while the head was OFF the car. It was awkward (and heavy
IMO) and thus a 2-person job to lift it and position it on the block. You
have to kinda snake the DP down past the subframe. The WG section was not
attached - this is easily done later - with access through wheel well and
from below.
hth
Brandon
----- Original Message -----
From: "fdekat" <fdekat at sentex.net>
To: <urq at audifans.com>
Sent: Monday, June 06, 2005 10:46 AM
Subject: [urq] (Not) Rod Knock!
>
> Hello All:
>
> Maybe two weeks ago, I started getting a 'bad noise' under load, and as
> far
> as I could tell, it sounded like a bad rod bearing.(Except that it only
> made
> the noise UNDER LOAD.) I thought I had narrowed it down to #5, by pulling
> the plug wire, the noise went away.
>
> I then swapped 4 & 5 injectors, and could get the noise to stop by pulling
> plug 4 wire.
>
> THerefore, must be the injector that I jsut swapped, right?
>
> Zzzzzt!
>
> I never checked pulling 5 plug, when swapping the 'bad injector' to #4.
>
> But I pursued that it was a bad injector anywy. Surprisingly enough,
> replacing injectors #4 & 5 didn't fix the problem.
>
>
> So.. trailered car to friends shop, and did some more thinking. How about
> compression test he says? Sounds good..
>
> #5= 40, #4=40, #3=130, #2=130, #1=130. Hmm...??? Maybe not a bad rod
> afterall?
>
> So, decide to pull the head. I must say, that's a "fun" job.
> After pulling the cis out of the way, and removing the air box, can
> finally
> get at the intake bolts, then the exhaust manifold bolts, and after hours
> of
> messing, get the head off. Sure enough, perhaps a 1/2 gap in the head
> gasket
> between 4 & 5. Who'd have though that could lead to a 'knocking' noise?
>
> I'm assuming that the 'knocking' was really some extra charge from 4
> getting
> pushed into 5, and causing too much 'boost' in just cylnder 5. Or
> something..?
>
>
> Anyway, to my real question...
>
> How's the easiest way to get the exhaust manifold back on?
>
> (It's a MC block in the urq, so both oil & water lines to the turbo.)
> Right now, the downpipe and turbo are connected to the manifold. (I didn't
> want to undo any of the oil & water lines to the tubos, as they looked
> kind
> of crusty..)
>
>
> Just attach the manifold (complete with downpipe & turbo) back on again?
> I
> can't really see how you could correctly torque up the exhaust manifold
> bolts
> that way..
>
> Or..
>
> Pull off the downpipe (and wastegate bellows), leaving the turbo on the
> manifold, and install that, then connect the downpipe again?
>
> I can't even see how you could pull off the turbo, with the manifold still
> in
> the car. It's really crazy tight in there..!
>
> ANd thanks for all the ideas that I've received so far. It makes one feel
> a
> lot less unmotivated when one knows that there are others with the same
> sorts
> of problems out there!
>
> Regards,
>
> =Frank de Kat=
>
>
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