[urq] Another one comes out of the cracks in Dayton (long)

[n-engelbert@terrans.net]

Last weekend at the Dayton Concours D'Elegance, a man in a mint '63 Beetle
approached me and my Mars '83.  He told me that along with the Beetle that
he was selling for a woman whose husband had died a couple of years ago,
she had a car just like mine for sale.  He had pictures, and sure enough,
it's also a Mars '83, but this one has 42k miles.  WAUDC0855DA900480.

I went to check it out last night and tell him what I thought of it, and
it's near immaculate.  Mostly original near perfect Mars paint, although
the hood has been repainted, and under the spoiler on the drivers side,
the paint looks like it's chipping/flaking off.  All factory pinstriping,
decals, and fading rings are present and in great shape.  He's got a stack
of maintenance records that includes a new complete driveshaft and new
spoiler in the last 100 miles.  The interior is chocolate leather and
looks brand new.  Euro Audi 80 single bulb flat grille lights, not
relayed, really dim.  And the list goes on.  Stock fog light switch
running what appear to be aftermarket fogs mounted below the bumper. 
Early 83 suspension with the rear swaybar, and, a two position diff lock
switch.  Working AC even.

The bad is that it does have some electrical gremlins, the fuel gauge
doesn't work, and the tach drops out with the turn signals on and the
headlights on.  The dash lights would drop out intermittently as well. 
While we were out driving, if we signaled to turn and John pressed in the
clutch to downshift, the car would die.  I assume that this is a fusebox
issue or connector issue as most of these are on the same circuit and I've
had the same problem on my car at one point.  Also, the car has been
sitting at least the last two years, and it was driven less than 1000
miles in the last 10 years.  The fuel pump was replaced in 1992, and again
in 2002, so things may be varnished up inside.

I don't need another car, he may have a buyer in PA already, but I do have
a few questions.

When I went to look at the car, the battery was dead.  We started the car
with a big battery charger, and it ran great for a while and would then
struggle to idle and die unless John were to artificially raise the idle
with the accelerator.  The car would then start again fine, run fine for a
while and then die.  I decided to check the frequency valve duty cycle,
and when the car attempts to go closed loop, it just dies.  Crank the car,
80%, car starts, 95% dropping, dropping, then when it goes to cycle around
50%, the car dies.  I tested the WOT switch with the idle switch closed,
50%.  WOT switch closed, idle switch open, 77%.  And sometimes the car
would smooth out and idle great, but the duty cycle was stuck at 95%
again.  Then, the car would lose idle again when the duty cycle would drop
from 95%.  It would go to around 55% and die.  If he'd catch the car and
rev it, the duty cycle would go up and cycle with rpm.  I haven't tested
the O2 sensor yet, or any other sensors, as it was getting dark last night
when I looked at it.  Any suggestions on what else to check to get it to
run correctly?

Also, something I hadn't seen on an UrQ before, the outer door handles had
plastic protectors behind the handle against the body, kind of like the
cups inside the inner door handles that are there to cover the screw head
holding the door handle on.  Were these stock?  I've never seen them
before.  I'll post some pictures soon.

If it were a late 83 with the late fusebox, or if it were helios, I'd
probably have mine for sale and would be buying this one.  But, this one
is pretty well 100% stock, and low mileage.  I won't feel as bad swapping
my 3b into my 83.

I want to help the seller get the car running correctly before he sells
it, which he may have already done.

Input, questions?

Nathan Engelbert
83 UrQ DA900453
89 90q
91 200q20v donor
91 200q20v avant