[urq] Damn intake manifold

Fri Apr 28 16:43:31 EDT 2006

I have actually been using a 6mm, I was just stating that the old
trick of pounding an oversize tool into a stripped-out fastener was
not going to work in this case.  I started with a standard 6mm allen
key on a 3/8" drive socket wrench, for the two rearmost bolts and the
three towards the front (but not the front-most), it worked fine.  I
had removed the IM and replaced the gasket last year when I had my
head work done, but that had been after I had taken the head-IM-EM
assembly off the car.  I didn't remember the torque values on the IM
bolts being that high, but they are quite tight.

I will not be able to get the front-most bolt out without removing the
turbo oil line that's in the way, this should not be a problem, with
that out of the way, access is pretty clear.

The two bolts in the rear that proved difficult are the ones are over
the "hump" in the downpipe.  You can't get a standard socket +
extension in there because the DP prevents you from getting a
straight-on angle.  My next step was to use a nice ball-ended 6mm
T-handle tool to try to loosen these.  This is where the stripping
problem seemed to have began, but I only "spun" this tool once per
bolt, then decided to take a different approach.

$77 later, I had a set of long allen key 3/8" drive sockets.  I did
indeed use the 6mm one, but it seems that a single "spin" of the
previous tool had ruined the heads on the bolts.  After feeling the
tool into the bolt head, and verifying correct seating with a mirror,
any turning on my part of the socket wrench resulted in that dreaded
feel of stripped metal.  The bolt heads look okay, but like I said,
they are quite shallow, so even a little damage is enough to cause
problems.  I'm not sure I can get an external extractor over the bolt
heads because of their location.  What I really need is a 6mm allen
key that has "teeth" that dig into the bolt.  Not sure even that would
work at this point though.

On 4/28/06, Jeff Lewis <jplewis at ucsc.edu> wrote:
> Hi Thatcher,
>
> I have my 034efi running great for 8 months, I used my urq
> manifold on my MC motor, clears fine, with the urq (wx)
> throttle body.
> I did modify the crank mechanism to suit the throttle
> position sensor setup.
> I have photos at home. Not at work.
>
> I have removed my intake manifold a number of times with
> the head in the car. I thought it was rather easy.
> You need a 6mm ball driver hex bit for a 3/8 drive
> ratchet, and some extensions. Also if you have a 6mm allen
> ball wrench that makes it easier too.
> I will help you anyway I can from here, but even Seattle
> is a little too far.
> I will be in Vancouver Washington next week.
>
> 6mm not 7!!!!
>
> Jeff Lewis
> Aptos calif.
> 82 urq 87MC1 034EFI
>
> On Fri, 28 Apr 2006 11:02:05 -0700
>   "Thatcher Hubbard" <thatcher.hubbard at gmail.com> wrote:
> > Hey everyone,
> >
> >  In the neverending process of trying to EFI my car,
> >I've hit the
> > 8000th of 30,000,000 snags.  Two days before moving to
> >Seattle, I
> > finally got my entire system wired and was quite close
> >to test firing
> > the car when...I discovered that there is no way to get
> >the stock
> > throttle body back onto the IM with a fuel rail in
> >place.  Some people
> > say it should be close, and they may be using different
> >stuff, but it
> > is not.  I would have to shave a minimum of 1" of height
> >off of the
> > injector + fuel rail combination to get it to clear.
> >
> >  My solution rather was to get another IM that puts the
> >throttle body
> > in a different place, like facing outwards toward the
> >fender well.
> > Having obtained one of those, and a throttle body that
> >will not only
> > bolt up but accepts my throttle position sensor, I'm
> >close again.
> >
> >  The problem now is the existing IM.  I've gotten 5 of
> >the 8 bolts
> > off with it in the car, they weren't even that bad.  But
> >the bolts
> > (which you would think would be hardened) are easy to
> >spin out of, and
> > I've done that on two of them, and they are quite
> >shallow, so they are
> > essentially useless.  There is not enough room to get a
> >hammer in
> > there and drive an oversized 7mm hex in there, so it
> >looks to me like
> > I will have to take the head off (and waste a new set of
> >OEM head
> > bolts that had a mere 200 miles on them, not to mention
> >a new head
> > gasket) to get these final bolts.  And, as anyone here
> >knows, getting
> > the head off these is a very involved affair.  So this
> >is a call for
> > anyone with a creative idea on how to get these damn
> >bolts out without
> > taking the head off.  There is not enough room to get a
> >drill down
> > there, and you can't see the bolt heads without using a
> >mirror anyway,
> > so even if there was, that would seem to be a poor idea.
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