[urq] Damn intake manifold

[Ingo Rautenberg]

Ah!  I see.  What has worked for me in this situation is triple  
square as sold by Lisle among others.  It's a smaller version than  
the size used for the drive shaft bolts.  But it would require you  
using a hammer to force it into the buggered allen head :~/

Best of luck.

Ingo

On Apr 28, 2006, at 4:43 PM, Thatcher Hubbard wrote:

> I have actually been using a 6mm, I was just stating that the old
> trick of pounding an oversize tool into a stripped-out fastener was
> not going to work in this case.  I started with a standard 6mm allen
> key on a 3/8" drive socket wrench, for the two rearmost bolts and the
> three towards the front (but not the front-most), it worked fine.  I
> had removed the IM and replaced the gasket last year when I had my
> head work done, but that had been after I had taken the head-IM-EM
> assembly off the car.  I didn't remember the torque values on the IM
> bolts being that high, but they are quite tight.
>
> I will not be able to get the front-most bolt out without removing the
> turbo oil line that's in the way, this should not be a problem, with
> that out of the way, access is pretty clear.
>
> The two bolts in the rear that proved difficult are the ones are over
> the "hump" in the downpipe.  You can't get a standard socket +
> extension in there because the DP prevents you from getting a
> straight-on angle.  My next step was to use a nice ball-ended 6mm
> T-handle tool to try to loosen these.  This is where the stripping
> problem seemed to have began, but I only "spun" this tool once per
> bolt, then decided to take a different approach.
>
> $77 later, I had a set of long allen key 3/8" drive sockets.  I did
> indeed use the 6mm one, but it seems that a single "spin" of the
> previous tool had ruined the heads on the bolts.  After feeling the
> tool into the bolt head, and verifying correct seating with a mirror,
> any turning on my part of the socket wrench resulted in that dreaded
> feel of stripped metal.  The bolt heads look okay, but like I said,
> they are quite shallow, so even a little damage is enough to cause
> problems.  I'm not sure I can get an external extractor over the bolt
> heads because of their location.  What I really need is a 6mm allen
> key that has "teeth" that dig into the bolt.  Not sure even that would
> work at this point though.
>
> On 4/28/06, Jeff Lewis <jplewis at ucsc.edu> wrote:
>> Hi Thatcher,
>>
>> I have my 034efi running great for 8 months, I used my urq
>> manifold on my MC motor, clears fine, with the urq (wx)
>> throttle body.
>> I did modify the crank mechanism to suit the throttle
>> position sensor setup.
>> I have photos at home. Not at work.
>>
>> I have removed my intake manifold a number of times with
>> the head in the car. I thought it was rather easy.
>> You need a 6mm ball driver hex bit for a 3/8 drive
>> ratchet, and some extensions. Also if you have a 6mm allen
>> ball wrench that makes it easier too.
>> I will help you anyway I can from here, but even Seattle
>> is a little too far.
>> I will be in Vancouver Washington next week.
>>
>> 6mm not 7!!!!
>>
>> Jeff Lewis
>> Aptos calif.
>> 82 urq 87MC1 034EFI
>>
>> On Fri, 28 Apr 2006 11:02:05 -0700
>>   "Thatcher Hubbard" <thatcher.hubbard at gmail.com> wrote:
>>> Hey everyone,
>>>
>>>  In the neverending process of trying to EFI my car,
>>> I've hit the
>>> 8000th of 30,000,000 snags.  Two days before moving to
>>> Seattle, I
>>> finally got my entire system wired and was quite close
>>> to test firing
>>> the car when...I discovered that there is no way to get
>>> the stock
>>> throttle body back onto the IM with a fuel rail in
>>> place.  Some people
>>> say it should be close, and they may be using different
>>> stuff, but it
>>> is not.  I would have to shave a minimum of 1" of height
>>> off of the
>>> injector + fuel rail combination to get it to clear.
>>>
>>>  My solution rather was to get another IM that puts the
>>> throttle body
>>> in a different place, like facing outwards toward the
>>> fender well.
>>> Having obtained one of those, and a throttle body that
>>> will not only
>>> bolt up but accepts my throttle position sensor, I'm
>>> close again.
>>>
>>>  The problem now is the existing IM.  I've gotten 5 of
>>> the 8 bolts
>>> off with it in the car, they weren't even that bad.  But
>>> the bolts
>>> (which you would think would be hardened) are easy to
>>> spin out of, and
>>> I've done that on two of them, and they are quite
>>> shallow, so they are
>>> essentially useless.  There is not enough room to get a
>>> hammer in
>>> there and drive an oversized 7mm hex in there, so it
>>> looks to me like
>>> I will have to take the head off (and waste a new set of
>>> OEM head
>>> bolts that had a mere 200 miles on them, not to mention
>>> a new head
>>> gasket) to get these final bolts.  And, as anyone here
>>> knows, getting
>>> the head off these is a very involved affair.  So this
>>> is a call for
>>> anyone with a creative idea on how to get these damn
>>> bolts out without
>>> taking the head off.  There is not enough room to get a
>>> drill down
>>> there, and you can't see the bolt heads without using a
>>> mirror anyway,
>>> so even if there was, that would seem to be a poor idea.
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>>
>>
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