[urq] Damn intake manifold

Fri Apr 28 18:16:04 EDT 2006

I had not thought of the tripe-square idea, but I know I can pick one
of those up at NAPA for cheap, just not sure where I'd get a middling
length one.  Hammering it in there might be tough too, I just want to
be real careful about what I try so I don't end up forcing myself to
remove the head (though I guess I should be prepared for that as
well).

Jeff, I'd love to see pictures of your setup.  I talked to Javad at
034 a number of times about this, and I don't want anyone to take this
as me badmouthing him, he's been darn helpful, but I think he needed
to do a little more development of his injector inserts for the WX
head before he sold them as "bolt-on".  He's told me I could probably
machine 1/8" off the bottom of the, and I can also see that the
injectors don't seat the deeply into the tops of them either (deep
enough to seal correctly, just not as far as they would necessarily
go).

On 4/28/06, Ingo Rautenberg <i.rautenberg at waratap.com> wrote:
> Ah!  I see.  What has worked for me in this situation is triple
> square as sold by Lisle among others.  It's a smaller version than
> the size used for the drive shaft bolts.  But it would require you
> using a hammer to force it into the buggered allen head :~/
>
> Best of luck.
>
> Ingo
>
> On Apr 28, 2006, at 4:43 PM, Thatcher Hubbard wrote:
>
> > I have actually been using a 6mm, I was just stating that the old
> > trick of pounding an oversize tool into a stripped-out fastener was
> > not going to work in this case.  I started with a standard 6mm allen
> > key on a 3/8" drive socket wrench, for the two rearmost bolts and the
> > three towards the front (but not the front-most), it worked fine.  I
> > had removed the IM and replaced the gasket last year when I had my
> > head work done, but that had been after I had taken the head-IM-EM
> > assembly off the car.  I didn't remember the torque values on the IM
> > bolts being that high, but they are quite tight.
> >
> > I will not be able to get the front-most bolt out without removing the
> > turbo oil line that's in the way, this should not be a problem, with
> > that out of the way, access is pretty clear.
> >
> > The two bolts in the rear that proved difficult are the ones are over
> > the "hump" in the downpipe.  You can't get a standard socket +
> > extension in there because the DP prevents you from getting a
> > straight-on angle.  My next step was to use a nice ball-ended 6mm
> > T-handle tool to try to loosen these.  This is where the stripping
> > problem seemed to have began, but I only "spun" this tool once per
> > bolt, then decided to take a different approach.
> >
> > $77 later, I had a set of long allen key 3/8" drive sockets.  I did
> > indeed use the 6mm one, but it seems that a single "spin" of the
> > previous tool had ruined the heads on the bolts.  After feeling the
> > tool into the bolt head, and verifying correct seating with a mirror,
> > any turning on my part of the socket wrench resulted in that dreaded
> > feel of stripped metal.  The bolt heads look okay, but like I said,
> > they are quite shallow, so even a little damage is enough to cause
> > problems.  I'm not sure I can get an external extractor over the bolt
> > heads because of their location.  What I really need is a 6mm allen
> > key that has "teeth" that dig into the bolt.  Not sure even that would
> > work at this point though.
> >
> > On 4/28/06, Jeff Lewis <jplewis at ucsc.edu> wrote:
> >> Hi Thatcher,
> >>
> >> I have my 034efi running great for 8 months, I used my urq
> >> manifold on my MC motor, clears fine, with the urq (wx)
> >> throttle body.
> >> I did modify the crank mechanism to suit the throttle
> >> position sensor setup.
> >> I have photos at home. Not at work.
> >>
> >> I have removed my intake manifold a number of times with
> >> the head in the car. I thought it was rather easy.
> >> You need a 6mm ball driver hex bit for a 3/8 drive
> >> ratchet, and some extensions. Also if you have a 6mm allen
> >> ball wrench that makes it easier too.
> >> I will help you anyway I can from here, but even Seattle
> >> is a little too far.
> >> I will be in Vancouver Washington next week.
> >>
> >> 6mm not 7!!!!
> >>
> >> Jeff Lewis
> >> Aptos calif.
> >> 82 urq 87MC1 034EFI
> >>
> >> On Fri, 28 Apr 2006 11:02:05 -0700
> >>   "Thatcher Hubbard" <thatcher.hubbard at gmail.com> wrote:
> >>> Hey everyone,
> >>>
> >>>  In the neverending process of trying to EFI my car,
> >>> I've hit the
> >>> 8000th of 30,000,000 snags.  Two days before moving to
> >>> Seattle, I
> >>> finally got my entire system wired and was quite close
> >>> to test firing
> >>> the car when...I discovered that there is no way to get
> >>> the stock
> >>> throttle body back onto the IM with a fuel rail in
> >>> place.  Some people
> >>> say it should be close, and they may be using different
> >>> stuff, but it
> >>> is not.  I would have to shave a minimum of 1" of height
> >>> off of the
> >>> injector + fuel rail combination to get it to clear.
> >>>
> >>>  My solution rather was to get another IM that puts the
> >>> throttle body
> >>> in a different place, like facing outwards toward the
> >>> fender well.
> >>> Having obtained one of those, and a throttle body that
> >>> will not only
> >>> bolt up but accepts my throttle position sensor, I'm
> >>> close again.
> >>>
> >>>  The problem now is the existing IM.  I've gotten 5 of
> >>> the 8 bolts
> >>> off with it in the car, they weren't even that bad.  But
> >>> the bolts
> >>> (which you would think would be hardened) are easy to
> >>> spin out of, and
> >>> I've done that on two of them, and they are quite
> >>> shallow, so they are
> >>> essentially useless.  There is not enough room to get a
> >>> hammer in
> >>> there and drive an oversized 7mm hex in there, so it
> >>> looks to me like
> >>> I will have to take the head off (and waste a new set of
> >>> OEM head
> >>> bolts that had a mere 200 miles on them, not to mention
> >>> a new head
> >>> gasket) to get these final bolts.  And, as anyone here
> >>> knows, getting
> >>> the head off these is a very involved affair.  So this
> >>> is a call for
> >>> anyone with a creative idea on how to get these damn
> >>> bolts out without
> >>> taking the head off.  There is not enough room to get a
> >>> drill down
> >>> there, and you can't see the bolt heads without using a
> >>> mirror anyway,
> >>> so even if there was, that would seem to be a poor idea.
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> >>
> >>
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>