[urq] She runs ! No more cut-out!

[Brandon Rogers]

L-A-
Several years ago when I rebuilt the WX that was in my car, I set the t-belt 
off by one tooth (accidentally of course).  Results - great low end torque, 
slightly rougher overall, and power fell off drastically I think around 4500 
rpm - and it _really_ did not want to rev much higher than 5000 - really 
seemed like a struggle.  I don't recall which way off it was - I just know 
it was one tooth.

Als- might as well get the corrrect WUR - they aren't hard to come by used. 
I bet plenty of people around here have an extra they'd sell cheap.

hth

Brandon
'84 ur

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Louis-Alain Richard" <laraa at sympatico.ca>
To: <urq at audifans.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 07, 2006 6:54 PM
Subject: [urq] She runs ! No more cut-out!


> Yes Eric, you read well: your car is now a runner, no more cut-out at any
> RPM.
>
> The audience : (applause)
>
> Me: Thank you very much.
>
>
> Now, before taking her for a well deserved ride, I have to do some more
> little work. Like finding the problem with the non-functioning brake 
> lights.
> Somebody has tapped into the brake circuit for god knows what reason. She
> should be ready for this week-end.
>
> What was the problem, you ask ?
>
> Well, I could say that it was the plumbing. In fact, the previous mechanic
> has plugged the top nipple (on the wastegate) to the intake manifold. This
> way, the wastegate was seeing boost pressure on both side of the 
> diaphragm.
> No a good way to have it control the boost...
>
> But this was possible because the warm-up regulator (WUR) is not vacuum
> controlled anymore, it's a WUR from another car. So there was a free port 
> on
> the intake manifold "vacuum tree". But this confirms that nobody tried to
> rectify the plumbing before changing parts.
>
> And the idle switch was not triggered when the throttle was at rest; so 
> this
> may explain why someone messed with the mixture in the first place, and
> replaced the WUR. Oh well.
>
> And the air temp sensor connections were less than optimal; the resistance
> of the sensor is in the 20-30 ohms range; the ECU was seeing 110-120 ohms 
> at
> the connector/ecu interface.
>
> And the pressure hose going to the ECU was brittle.
>
> And the gasket between the air filter housing and the fuel metering head 
> was
> not properly placed. Another small air leak.
>
> Now, with my stock ECU in it, she is not very fast. And without the proper
> WUR, she doesn't start real quick. But all the parameters of the ECU are 
> OK;
> duty-cycle, temp sensor, WOT and idle switches, reference and TDC sensors.
> And the engine dies _right_now_ when I open the oil cap. So the engine is
> air tight.
>
> Now more questions to the list:
>
> - In my circa-1985 Bosch K-Jetronic booklet, they states that some WUR 
> have
> an enrichment function at part throttle. That's why they are pressure
> dependent. So, must I reinstall a correct WUR on his car or Eric will hole 
> a
> piston ?
>
> - Martin, you states that each MAC02 are not created equals. If we find
> another yellow-tagged chipped ECU for his car (we found one in the
> marketplace ads last week), what are the pins that we must displace ?
>
> - if the timing belt was 1 tooth from the correct configuration, what 
> would
> be the effect on the engine ? Is this enough to completely change the 
> power
> and behavior of the engine ? Is it really noticeable ? I am wondering 
> since
> I am never sure if the timing belt is exactly where it should be.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Louis-Alain
>
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