[urq] Cold start valve ?

[Ado Sigal]

Hi Alain

Good to hear about the new job. The CSI is connected (earth switched 
12V) to the thermo time switch (on the back of the head), and energized 
only with the key on "start" position (on GV, WR), so the test is easy 
with a bulb or LED or V meter connected to the CSI plug. The test device 
should show the duration of the spray, as per CIS chart (think 3-15 sec 
depending on engine temp). The TTS operation, continuity, or contact 
corrosion is usually the case, so only if those tests prove OK, check 
the CSI operation, which rarely fails. WUR operation should be also 
checked, because it directly controls the FD pressure difference 
(controlled via thermostats and IM vac/pressure), specially if the 
engine doesn't run sweet when cold.  Mine is on rich side, so I don't 
use CSI at all, and it starts and runs better than with it. The ECU only 
controls the timing, and with the way it operates (determine if engine 
turns, cyl # 1, engine speed), it ensures that engine turns several 
times without the spark, while CSI spraying the fuel, which is why Ur 
tends to flood rather than run lean on start. Anyway, good luck.

Ado



Louis-Alain Richard wrote:

>Hi everyone,
>
>Got a new job, after 13th month as a dad-at-home (cool period, guys, I 
>recommend it to everyone that can). I am again an editor in chief, this 
>time for a free car magazine in the montreal area.
>
>So, last night and this morning, at -20C, my beloved urQ refused to 
>fire, for the first time in years. I suspect the cold start valve, 
>since I didn't smell any gas, and it finally catched after a long 
>cranking period, with the help of another battery. Otherwise, car runs 
>fine, and pull strongly thanks to cold air (yeah!).
>
>So question: what is the firing sequence, or circuitry for the CSV ? 
>Which sensor provides the signal ? Is the ECU involved ? How to test it 
>easily ?
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
>Louis-Alain
>
>  
>