[urq] RE : Need some help

[Andrew B]

http://www.autozone.com/R,APP1329191/vehicleId,1190401/initialAction,partProductDetail/store,5252/partType,01559/shopping/partProductDetail.htm

Can anyone tell me if this is the relay?  It says "flasher" but nothing
about a relay.  Is there another place I can get one, or do I need to follow
up with Chris at force5auto (who hasn't been answering my emails of late)?

To Louis-Alain, do you have any details/photos of what you did?  Did you buy
a replacement fuse box from a different car, or something from painless
wiring, or what?

Thanks again,

-Andrew


On 5/8/07, SpotatAshleys <spotatashleys at hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>  Louis-Alain
>
> What's this you said?    "I don't want to scare you, it's not a tough job,
> but you need to be well
> prepared with good quality *"crimpers*"
>
> Nooooooo...you can't use crimpers and crimped connections on a quattro.
> Solder only please. If a jobs worth doing, it's worth doing well.
>
> Keith
>
> '87 WR
> '63 Daimler V8
>
>
> p.s. actually I only said this to be controversial and start a "flame war"
> over the merits of solder vs crimp.. It's been too quite on the urq-list for
> a long time now. Just wanted to liven things up a bit. And, yes, I do solder
> everything. My quattro probably weighs 50kg more than most with all my
> soldering.
>
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Louis-Alain Richard" <
> laraa at sympatico.ca>
> To: "'Andrew B'" <andrew.sb at gmail.com>; <urq at audifans.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2007 2:08 PM
> Subject: [urq] RE : Need some help
>
> > Hi Andrew,
> >
> > Since it's a 4000$ car, must be an urQ.
> >
> > Then,
> >
> > 1 and 2 might be related to the fusebox/block-connectors problems. I did
> it
> > on my early urQ. New fusebox is cheap, easy to replace, but then you
> just
> > repair half of the problem. You need to order at dealer the 4 square
> > connectors (1 yellow, 1 black, 1 blue, 1 white) and replace each one
> that
> > shows melting. In addition, you need the round OEM connectors, 16 in
> each
> > block, but you don't need to replace them all, just the hi-amps for
> > headlight, defrost, fuel pump, engine coil, etc. so maybe a dozen will
> be
> > enough.
> >
> > I don't want to scare you, it's not a tough job, but you need to be well
> > prepared with good quality crimpers and OEM connectors, plus you NEED
> the
> > wiring diagram in the Bentley. After that, if you do a good job, you'll
> > relay all these hi-amps components, and the fusebox will last 100 years.
> > That's what I did to mine in 2002.
> >
> > 3- After that fusebox replacement, maybe the tach bouncing will heal
> itself,
> > since it is powered by one of the melted connectors. Mine was fine after
> the
> > replacement.
> >
> > Hope this helps,
> >
> > Louis-Alain
> > 1983 Quattro
> > Montreal PQ
> >
> >
> >
> > > -----Message d'origine-----
> > >
> > > Hi again...
> > > I've found a great deal on a good car but am hoping to pre-emptively
> solve
> > > a
> > > few issues before I buy it.  I'm trying to gauge how complicated a fix
> > > will
> > > be.  The price is right (~4000), it's an early build, but there are a
> few
> > > things that are keeping it from passing inspection here, and that
> makes me
> > > nervous.
> > >
> > > 1) the blinkers don't work.  Nothing turns on when you flip the
> switch.
> > >
> > > 2) The headlights only work on high.
> > >
> > > 3) The tachometer "bounces" off idle.
> > >
> > >
> > > Any suggestions?  PO suggested it might be a ground strap, but with
> the
> > > early electronics I'm not sure how much of a handful I'd be getting
> into.
> > > Once it passes inspection I don't mind spending some time figuring
> things
> > > out, but I need those headlights and blinkers to work.
> > >
> > > Thanks in advance, I'm hoping I'll be able to get another coupe soon!
> > >
> >
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