[urq] Urq, WX, Head Problems, etc.

[Justin Church]

If I were re-building the head, I would not go with sodium filled valves. 
Although the are good for heat dissiapation, they are know to fail at high 
boost #'s over time....tend to fatigue and snap off....
Ask Javad at 034 motosports about his first 10vt.....
Heres a link to the damage:
http://www.80tq.com/EngineDamage.html

HTH,
Justin

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Stephen Redford" <shr42 at msn.com>
To: "Louis-Alain Richard" <larichard at plguide.com>
Cc: "URQ" <urq at audifans.com>; <s-car-list at audifans.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 19, 2007 12:52 PM
Subject: Re: [urq] Urq, WX, Head Problems, etc.


>
>
> ------------- Louis , are the Sodium valves and Titanium Alloy guides 
> still available ?  Where besides the stealer would I look ?   I want the 
> sodium valves and the original guides soley because I know they work very 
> well and last !      ...Stephen '85Urq
>
>
>
>  ----- Original Message ----- 
>  From: Louis-Alain Richard<mailto:larichard at plguide.com>
>  To: 'Stephen Redford'<mailto:shr42 at msn.com> ; 
> 'URQ'<mailto:urq at audifans.com>
>  Sent: Friday, May 18, 2007 8:47 AM
>  Subject: RE: [urq] Urq, WX, Head Problems, etc.
>
>
>  Stephen,
>
>  I'm wondering if the mechanic has indeed measured everything, or just
>  assumed that to do a good job, everything must be replaced. You know, on
>  lesser engines, valves and seats and guides often are replaced because 
> they
>  are inexpensive compared to the overall cost. On an Audi turbo 5 pot, 
> beware
>  of the cost of the new valves and guides. Exhaust valves are sodium 
> cooled
>  and the guides are titanium alloy. Both are $$$ and can last a very long
>  time.
>
>  When my car's engine head was rebuilt 3 years ago, all they found was 3
>  cracks at the usual spot (sparkplug hole toward exhaust valve), and no 
> wear
>  at all on the valves and the guides, even if the engine is over 100k. 
> They
>  did replace the valve seats and repair the cracks.
>
>  So my suggestion is : repair what you've got, don't replace what's not
>  mandatory, and collect the parts for a 3B swap to be completed when 
> you'll
>  retire...
>
>  Louis-Alain
>
>
>
>  > -----Message d'origine-----
>  >
>  > ------ I have been having some work done on my '85urq.   While on the
>  > dyno, after parts had been replaced and fab'd, etc. ,  there was
>  > detonation..  The engine is now apart.  Pistons have been purchased,
>  > (Wisco) and the head and block or at the machinist.   The machinist
>  > says that the valves and guides are out of tolerance and need
>  > replacement .   Also , the cam journals are not properly aligned and
>  > must be rebored, (approx. extra  $190.). The shop mechanic handling
>  > everything suggested a new head or equivalent .     What would be an
>  > equivalent replacement head and approx.  cost to make it fit...?    I
>  > am thinking that I would be better off just continuing with the
>  > existing head repair, even though the machinist says it might now go
>  > thru another  rebuild as it has already been worked on previously.   So
>  > the present repair , he suggests , would likely be the last one...   I
>  > have already had a front mount intercooler installed , bought a new
>  > turbo, had a tube header made, new d
>  >  own pipe, EFI (Megasquirt) and new Ron Davis Radiator, and other
>  > related details.   I had thought of getting a 3B engine and having him
>  > install it, but that would probably cost a lot more and many or most of
>  > the current parts would not fit.    I sure would appreciate some
>  > suggestions and "how to's" to make my decision.   Another head might
>  > need new valves and guides and new lifters and would cost to ship, from
>  > wherever and cost to be disassembled , manifolds might not fit, etc. ,
>  > So I am thinking ;  just repair what I have and get the car on the
>  > road.   Thanks in Advance,    Stephen Redford  '85Urq  Seattle
>  > 
> shr42 at msn.com<mailto:shr42 at msn.com<mailto:shr42 at msn.com<mailto:shr42 at msn.com>>
>
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