[urq] below 35 degrees cold start problem

[Ned Ritchie]

Tom,

Take the computer into the house not the battery.
It will start with a warm computer.

One Canadian owner placed a back up light bulb inside the computer with a
push button to turn it on and warm the chip.  Audi later switched to mil
spec or automotive specification chips.  

I know of many who went skiing and then could not start their car when
leaving.  I tried to reprogram factory chips instead of supplying
aftermarket ones that were temperature sensitive.

Bye for another year or so.

Ned Ritchie

-----Original Message-----
From: urq-bounces at audifans.com [mailto:urq-bounces at audifans.com] On Behalf
Of Tom Saltino
Sent: Monday, November 19, 2007 10:44 AM
To: urq at audifans.com
Subject: Re: [urq] below 35 degrees cold start problem

Cheers, the battery (Interstate) is only about a year old and it's
maintained by a BatteryMinder when the car is not in use.  I'm thinking
about bringing the battery in the house overnight the next time the outside
temp drops.  We'll see what happens I guess.

Tom

From:  Mike Sylvester <mike at urq20v.com>  
Date:  2007/11/19 Mon PM 12:12:08 EST 
To:  saltinot at windstream.net 
Subject:  RE: [urq] below 35 degrees cold start problem 

The ECU needs at as many as 2 full revolutions before it will turn on the
fuel pump because it will not do so until it sees the timing reference
signal coincident with the signal from the Hall sensor.  Low voltage and
slow cranking seems to make starting very difficult.
The 1 Guage wire should be enough.  Is the battery fresh?

Mike

www.urq20v.com



-------- Original Message --------
Subject: [urq] below 35 degrees cold start problem
From: T. J. (Tom) Saltino III <saltinot at windstream.net>
Date: Mon, November 19, 2007 10:19 am
To: <urq at audifans.com>

My '85 WX-powered 4k will not fire when the temp drops below around 35
degree. The starter turns, but I don't get the fuel pump or spark. I'm
thinking that the battery is loosing amperage as the temp falls causing the
starter to turn slower and therefor the ECU can't "see" the engine turning
over?

BTW, the battery has been relocated to the trunk and is connected to the
engine via a 1 gauge cable. Should I try a stronger battery or a thicker
cable? I can jump it with my P'stroke F250 (two batteries) and she'll
fire....but that doesn't help me when I'm away from the house! 

Anybody got a better idea?

Thanks,
Tom