[urq] Oil cooler lines : replacement from Aeroquip

Tue Jan 13 21:11:50 PST 2009

 I think you'll find that if you use good materials, the components will last a long time.  I've had aftermarket coolers/lines in numerous cars for a lot of years without issue.

Again, I think the most important points are securing the SS lines well, and protecting everything else from those lines... they will rub through just about anything they touch.  I like using the red/blue silicon aftermarket boost hose as my material.  Resists abrasion well, and doesn't appear to decompose as easily as regular rubber.

I think I would also argue the cold chisel method for cutting your lines, but I guess YMMV.  I tend to stick with the manufacturer's procedure... electrical tape and a fine cutoff wheel.

Dave

-----Original Message-----
From: Alan Pemberton <alan_pemberton at telus.net>
To: Louis-Alain Richard <larichard at plguide.com>; urq at audifans.com
Sent: Tue, 13 Jan 2009 9:07 pm
Subject: Re: [urq] Oil cooler lines : replacement from Aeroquip

Louis-Alain

I'm not sure how effective trying to seal the assembly will be as any 
liquids will migrate via the stainless braid.  Mine lasted a few years - 
just keep a watch for signs of cracking/splitting

Alan
85 urq

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Louis-Alain Richard" <larichard at plguide.com>
To: "'Alan Pemberton'" <alan_pemberton at telus.net>; <urq at audifans.com>; 
<qshipq at aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 13, 2009 6:29 PM
Subject: RE: [urq] Oil cooler lines : replacement from Aeroquip

Oh oh, I can see what you mean : the
 oil cooler is always under the road 
spray... salty stuff around here. And you tell me that now ? :-)

Should I paint the assembly with some rubberized GravelGuard undercoating ? 
Maybe it can protect a bit ? Or wrap the fittings into some giant 
shrink-tubing ?

Louis-Alain

-----Message d'origine-----

Re Scott's comment re cracking of Aeroquip fittings.  This happened to me -
the fittings on both hoses at the at the oil cooler end cracked due to
internal corrosion and swelling.  Replaced with new hose and stainless steel
fittings.

Alan
85 urq

----- Original Message ----- 
>
> L-A
> I've done a couple dozen oil coolers into the urq/urS/200/vw's over the
> years... A couple of comments. First, if going this route, a bigger oil
> cooler (19row) fits exactly where the stock aux rad goes on an urq - btdt
> on a few - including my 83 ur. This eliminates the need for the aux rad,
> and also gives better clearance and airflow near the right side
> motormount. The bigger cooler is inexpensive compared to the rest of the
> money spent. Second, if going this route (especially water cooled turbo
> addition) the single oil cooler boss from a 200t/5kt motor will bolt into
> the urq stock location, and means bigger oil line adapter fittings
> (M18/1.50 to -10).
>
> The heater hose idea is good for isolating the SS-roundfile, I also like
> to use figure-8 deltecs (1/2in wide super zip tie) and/or the urs car uses
> a really neat double line bushing on the oil cooler20line that is available
> at the dealer. IME, the hose attacks everything it contacts, not the other
> way around. That SS will cut it's way thru sheetmetal, seen that many
> times!
>
> WRT fittings, they are reusable, but salt will attack them and cause
> cracking, btst. Also, since most hose is teflon inserted, the anvil/chisel
> method is not recommended - it can crack the last part of the tube. I use
> electrical tape tight around the cut point and a high rpm cutting wheel
> (25k rpm makes a really clean cut).
>
> HTH and my .02
>
> Scott J
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Louis-Alain Ri
> chard <larichard at plguide.com>
> To: 'urq' <urq at audifans.com>
> Sent: Tue, 13 Jan 2009 12:26 pm
> Subject: [urq] Oil cooler lines : replacement from Aeroquip
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Hi everyone,
>
>
>
> I just re-did the oil cooler lines on my urQ : I mangled one during
> installation last summer and it leaked at bit. So, after a short search, I
> found a setup that is correctly priced, should last forever and available
> easily.
>
>
>
> Aeroquip aluminum fittings : can be re-used a number of times with new
> hose.
>
> 1x FCM4063 (180 degree elbow) (32$)
>
> 1x FCM4033 (90 degree elbow) (25$)
>
> 2x FCM1013 (straight fitting) (15$ x2)
>
>
>
> Steel Metric to US adaptors (no brand, from an industrial supplier)
>
> 4x 9605-08-L10-16 (M16 to ½ in JIC) (10$)
>
>
>
> 4x special gaskets (flat steel washer with a thin rubber insert, t
o fit
> the
> adaptors on the M16 side) (2$ x4)
>
>
>
> 3 feet of generic SS braided ½ in oil line (13$ x3)
>
>
>
> With that, you can reproduce the OEM oil line set-up with simple hand
> tools
> in an hour or so.
>
>
>
> Some tips :
>
> -          When cutting the SS hose, tape the area with Duct Tape, and use
> a
> wide chisel over an anvil. Much easier than any other method.
>
> -          Tape the hose back of the insert before tightening the fitting
> :
> that way, you’ll confirm that the hose is still perfectly into the
> fitting.
>
> -          Don’t make the hose too long : there is not much space down
> there, and they can easily=2
> 0rub on some body sheetmetal.
>
> -          Wrap the SS hose with some rubber heater hose split in spiral,
> and attach these bits with zippy-ties where there is some potential
> rubbing.
> One is never too cautious when dealing with the engine’s blood.
>
>
>
> Louis-Alain
>
>
>
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