[urq] Oil cooler lines : replacement from Aeroquip

Wed Jan 14 08:05:35 PST 2009

 Rubber coating spray may help, never tried that myself.  Aluminum fittings are race parts, and should be regularly inspected IMO/E.  Much easier to see if there is nothing obscuring the anodizing.  The best protection is to use the proper AN fitting wrenches when installing, the anodizing is the weather protection.

HTH

Scott J

-----Original Message-----
From: Louis-Alain Richard <larichard at plguide.com>
To: 'Alan Pemberton' <alan_pemberton at telus.net>; urq at audifans.com; qshipq at aol.com
Sent: Tue, 13 Jan 2009 8:29 pm
Subject: RE: [urq] Oil cooler lines : replacement from Aeroquip

Oh oh, I can see what you mean : the oil cooler is always under the road 
spray... salty stuff around here. And you tell me that now ? :-)

Should I paint the assembly with some rubberized GravelGuard undercoating ? 
Maybe it can protect a bit ? Or wrap the fittings into some giant shrink-tubing 
? 

Louis-Alain

-----Message d'origine-----

Re Scott's comment re cracking of Aeroquip fittings.  This happened to me - 
the fittings on both hoses at the at the oil cooler end cracked due to 
internal corrosion and swelling.  Replaced with new hose and stainless steel 
fittings.

Alan
85 urq

----- Original Message ----- 
>
> L-A
> I've done a couple dozen oil coolers into the urq/urS/200/vw's over the 
> years... A couple of comments. First, if going this route, a bigger oil 
> cooler (19row) fits exactly where the stock aux rad goes on an urq - btdt 
> on
 a few - including my 83 ur. This eliminates the need for the aux rad, 
> and also gives better clearance and airflow near the right side 
> motormount. The bigger cooler is inexpensive compared to the rest of the 
> money spent. Second, if going this route (especially water cooled turbo 
> addition) the single oil cooler boss from a 200t/5kt motor will bolt into 
> the urq stock location, and means bigger oil line adapter fittings 
> (M18/1.50 to -10).
>
> The heater hose idea is good for isolating the SS-roundfile, I also like 
> to use figure-8 deltecs (1/2in wide super zip tie) and/or the urs car uses 
> a really neat double line bushing on the oil cooler line that is available 
> at the dealer. IME, the hose attacks everything it contacts, not the other 
> way around. That SS will cut it's way thru sheetmetal, seen that many 
> times!
>
> WRT fittings, they are reusable, but salt will attack them and cause 
> cracking, btst. Also, since most hose is teflon inserted, the anvil/chisel 
> method is not recommended - it can crack the last part of the tube. I use 
> electrical tape tight around the cut point and a high rpm cutting wheel 
> (25k rpm makes a really clean cut).
>
> HTH and my .02
>
> Scott J
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Louis-Alain Ri
> chard <larichard at plguide.com>
> To: 'urq' <urq at audifans.com>
> Sent: Tue, 13 Jan 2009 12:26 pm
> Subject: [urq] Oil cooler lines : replacement from Aeroquip
>
>
>
>
>
>=0
A>
>
>
>
> Hi everyone,
>
>
>
> I just re-did the oil cooler lines on my urQ : I mangled one during
> installation last summer and it leaked at bit. So, after a short search, I
> found a setup that is correctly priced, should last forever and available
> easily.
>
>
>
> Aeroquip aluminum fittings : can be re-used a number of times with new 
> hose.
>
> 1x FCM4063 (180 degree elbow) (32$)
>
> 1x FCM4033 (90 degree elbow) (25$)
>
> 2x FCM1013 (straight fitting) (15$ x2)
>
>
>
> Steel Metric to US adaptors (no brand, from an industrial supplier)
>
> 4x 9605-08-L10-16 (M16 to ½ in JIC) (10$)
>
>
>
> 4x special gaskets (flat steel washer with a thin rubber insert, to fit 
> the
> adaptors on the M16 side) (2$ x4)
>
>
>
> 3 feet of generic SS braided ½ in oil line (13$ x3)
>
>
>
> With that, you can reproduce the OEM oil line set-up with simple hand 
> tools
> in an hour or so.
>
>
>
> Some tips :
>
> -          When cutting the SS hose, tape the area with Duct Tape, and use 
> a
> wide chisel over an anvil. Much easier than any other method.
>
> -          Tape the hose back of the insert before tightening the fitting 
> :
> that way, you’ll confirm that the hose is still perfectly into the 
> fitting.
>
> -          Don’t make the hose too long : there is not much space down
> there, and they can easily=2
> 0rub on some body sheetmetal.
>
> -    20     Wrap the SS hose with some rubber heater hose split in spiral,
> and attach these bits with zippy-ties where there is some potential 
> rubbing.
> One is never too cautious when dealing with the engine’s blood.
>
>
>
> Louis-Alain
>
>
>
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>
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>
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