[urq] urq Digest, Vol 83, Issue 20

[Eric J. Fluhr]

>> The original master cylinder bore is less diameter than the V8/200 MC 
>> that is where the
>> disaster started.  There was a plastic sleeve in the hydraulic booster 
>> that the master
>> is pressed into - or so I thought it was a sleeve.  It  was held by 
>> captive bolt at
>> bottom - O should have also figured that since it was a sawtooth grip 
>> nut - one way only
>> - to stop there and re install my otherwise good working "original": MC.
>>
>> Yes -   I should have stopped there, but being is no caveats based on 
>> BTDT were issued,
>> presumed this was not a problem.  So I removed the bolt - with difficulty 
>> it came out.
>> The 'sleeve' was also captive by friction until I helped it free.  Free 
>> it did!
>> Hydraulic fluid, spring, O-ring seal, carrier/retainer, all let loose. 
>> It was not a
>> sleeve but a complex shaped seal holding captive - shim, O-ring, 
>> veeerylooongspring,
>> shaft, retainer and hydraulic fluid under pressure!

I read this as indicating that he has disassembled his brake booster and 
cannot reassemble it.
He needs a replacement hydraulic booster.

If so, I'd recommend going with a vacuum booster from an early FWD 
Coupe/4000 as these are
cheap and easy to source.   You may also find that units from late model FWD 
Coupe/80/90 work
as well.  Oddly, my '85 FWD Coupe had a larger thickness brake booster and I 
don't know if it
would work.  The key is to check the depth of the actuating rod in the 
booster to the booster
housing, relative to the depth it goes into the brake MC vs. the MC sealing 
surface to the booster.
This may sound complex, but it is really easy to check.

Moving to a vacuum brake booster is a common swap for the Urq that many 
people have been
happy with, including me.

Regards,
Eric
'82 urq