[urq] V8 Brake swap for UrQ - bad info worse than no info.?
racingiron at comcast.net
racingiron at comcast.net
Sat Sep 18 09:57:40 PDT 2010
Ben, I assume since you have the sawtooth-head set screw and plastic end cap that you're working with an AL-bodied booster. The iron ones I've worked with have used a regular hex head screw and metal end cap. Patrick already pointed out the picture of the disassembled AL booster, but here's the Fe one if you need it:
http://home.comcast.net/~racingiron/layout.jpg
That set screw can certainly be reused, as it is not intended to seal out any fluid. There is an oil seal and o-ring on that plastic end cap that should keep fluid at bay. If you've got fluid coming out, either or both of those is damaged or missing. Carefully look at the picture to make sure you didn't loose any parts when the end cap let go. No need for a new booster (big $$), you can get the seal and o-rings. I'll dig through the archives if necessary, but someone here may have the specs handy.
Just FYI, I run Boxster fronts and urS4 rears on my car with the stock MC--nice pedal feel and perfect travel for heel-toe. Stock prop valve, too, but if I'm on track or pushing relatively hard I always lock the center diff which provides a poor man's proportioning through the driveline. I vaguely recall some discussion of brake line tweaks to make the bigger MC work, but you're saying it's incompatible with the booster?
Eric R.
'86 urq
'92 urS
'93 urS
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