[urq] V8 Brake swap for UrQ - bad info worse than no info.?

[Ben Swann]

Yes, this is different than what I had.
 
Thanks for the diagram.
 
I was puzzled why mine leaked through the screw - varied from a trickle to just a slght
weep, but leaking nonetheless.  I tried 1. just the screw 2. screw with copper washer -
probably the incoorect size 3. same size washer with an O-ring inside to keep the washer
spaced - all leaked, however the last attempt did manage to get the leak to a weap,
except when the brakes were pumped - then it tricked fluid.  The leak definately cam
from the screw.
 
I know I got the O-ring in there, and I think the seal.  I will get the O-ring kit and
reseal.  Having a source for that screw would help - it has a needle valve shape, I
presume to help guide it through the sleeve.  Mine is now deformed to the point that I'm
afraid it might shear if I tighten again.
 
The master cylinder from the 200 quattro does not fit into the booster without removing
the plastic retainer.  I did not see how it would work that way, and so reverted to
stock.  I should have never touched it.
 
Ben

  _____  

From: racingiron at comcast.net [mailto:racingiron at comcast.net] 
Sent: Saturday, September 18, 2010 12:58 PM
To: Patrick Carlier
Cc: Ben Swann; urq at audifans.com
Subject: Re: [urq] V8 Brake swap for UrQ - bad info worse than no info.?


Ben, I assume since you have the sawtooth-head set screw and plastic end cap that you're
working with an AL-bodied booster.  The iron ones I've worked with have used a regular
hex head screw and metal end cap.  Patrick already pointed out the picture of the
disassembled AL booster, but here's the Fe one if you need it:
http://home.comcast.net/~racingiron/layout.jpg
<http://home.comcast.net/%7Eracingiron/layout.jpg> 
That set screw can certainly be reused, as it is not intended to seal out any fluid.
There is an oil seal and o-ring on that plastic end cap that should keep fluid at bay.
If you've got fluid coming out, either or both of those is damaged or missing.
Carefully look at the picture to make sure you didn't loose any parts when the end cap
let go.  No need for a new booster (big $$), you can get the seal and o-rings.  I'll dig
through the archives if necessary, but someone here may have the specs handy.

Just FYI, I run Boxster fronts and urS4 rears on my car with the stock MC--nice pedal
feel and perfect travel for heel-toe.  Stock prop valve, too, but if I'm on track or
pushing relatively hard I always lock the center diff which provides a poor man's
proportioning through the driveline.  I vaguely recall some discussion of brake line
tweaks to make the bigger MC work, but you're saying it's incompatible with the booster?

Eric R.
'86 urq
'92 urS
'93 urS