[urq] When the day my heater hose burst, could i just clamp it? WX engine

[Mike Sylvester]

By allowing coolant to flow in the heater path you are decreasing the
amount of coolant passing through the radiator.  When the heater core is
present, it will pull off some heat, if not, you are decreasing the
cooling capability.  How much it is decreased?  Possibly not
significant. I don't know.

Mike

> -------- Original Message --------
> Subject: Re: [urq] When the day my heater hose burst, could i just clamp
> it?  WX engine
> From: Chris <kleinbiker1 at aol.com>
> Date: Tue, August 27, 2013 2:47 pm
> To: Steve B <urq at pacbell.net>
> Cc: audifans urq <urq at audifans.com>
> 
> 
> Pressure and flow are two very different animals. There is no question in my mind that the heater core is not needed for additional cooling or restriction. Bypassing it does not require crawling under the dash. In the summer when no airflow goes across the heater core it does not assist in cooling the engine. Bypassing it eliminates a small quantity of coolant from the system and this the thermostat would open just a touch sooner and then continue to regulate the engine temp along with its associated fan. Perhaps knowing a trick of turning on the heater to help cool an overheating engine in the summer is causing you to assume that the heater core somehow is essential to the proper function of the cooling system. If all the other parts of the cooling system are functioning properly then eliminating the heater core will cause no detriment to the ability of the system to keep the engine sufficiently cooled. 
> 
> On Aug 27, 2013, at 13:35, Steve B <urq at pacbell.net> wrote:
> 
> > I suspect that Mike was not suggesting that the OP depend on the heater valve to seal, rather to indicate that there is normally little to no flow through the circuit, so it should be OK to block it.
> > 
> > I would recommend against plumbing the back of the head back to the pipe that runs along the engine up to the thermostat.  Normal max heater flow would go through the heat exchanger in the cabin, with associated cooling and restriction.  I'm convinced the better course would be to block flow.
> > 
> > When I last had to deal with that hose I didn't have time to crawl under the dash, so I spliced the hose at the firewall and used a fitting from one of those "flush and fill" kits to link everything together.  This has come in handy for coolant replacement too.
> > 
> > Steve Buchholz
> > 
> > Chris <kleinbiker1 at aol.com> wrote:
> > 
> >> I would not rely on the heater valve to hold the pressure in the system for starters. It holds the pressure now because the pressure us almost equal on both sides of the ball valve. The best option in my opinion is to keep a piece of heater hose in the trunk that's cut to the proper length to go from that coolant pipe to the head thus completely eliminating the heater core and valve from the coolant loop. You do still need coolant to flow in my opinion. 
> >> 
> >> On Aug 27, 2013, at 11:17, Steven Murray <michellepfeiffersx at yahoo.com> wrote:
> >> 
> >>> Or do I need to put in a hose to maintain some flow?
> >>> 
> >>> I keep some hose pincers in the car.     Heater Hoses might be 30 years old.   They are difficult to replace I believe, on A/C car. 
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