[V6-12v] Re: Timing belt stuff

[James4ihl at aol.com]

Yep, that all makes perfect sense - a very good argument for why using the 
tool, in this case, is a much better option.

In a message dated 24/2/04 1:27:04 am, cyoung1661 at rogers.com writes:


> Hi guys
> 
> I have done this very recently and can give my opinion for what it is worth.
> I am no mechanic but have a lot of mechanical engineering experience and
> have rebuilt several engines.
> The method of "teeth counting" is possible. It will work and you will not
> have piston/valve colision if you do it right but Tom is right and it is far
> from optimal. The correct way , you lock the cams independantly of the
> pulleys on the end of the cams. yes , thats right you crack the pulleys free
> of the cams and they are intentionally not keyed. What this does is allow
> you to tension the belt correctly and evenly through its entire length while
> the cams are held in place. What this acccomplishes is that you can change
> the belt tension without changing the timing of the car. As the belt is
> tensioned the two cam sprokets move in opposite directions by the way it is
> designed , you do not want to do this with the sprokets attatched to cams as
> you are changing your valve timing. After you have the tension right you
> tighten the sprokets on to the cams and you are set, perfect timing, perfect
> tension. By teeth counting you leave the sprokets locked to the cams and it
> is impossible to tension properly between the two cams as they are locked to
> the spokets without changing said timing . Is it critical ? well that is to
> be decided by each individual .
> 
> I used the tools and would not try it without the tools, even though I know
> I could do it ..
> 
> Too bad the tools are in Toronto , I rented mine from a guy there for $50.00
> for a week .
> 
> The crank tool is basicaly a bolt about three inches long with the threads
> of the crank position sensor. The threads are machined down at the "non
> head" end to fit in a hole in the crank You thread this bolt in the crank
> position sensor hole and into the hole in the crank.. done
> 
> The cam locking tool is actually a lot tougher than you would think  It is
> simple in design, a long flat bar with two "nipples" at each end that fit in
> the cam slots in the diamond at the end of the crank, which is part of the
> crank , not the pulley, this is how you lock the cams when the pulleys are
> "cracked off" . . One nipple is bigger than the other as it has to go a
> certain way, dont remeber which, larger to the middle I think. What makes it
> tricky is that there are a couple of bends in it to miss the engine block at
> the front. This makes it difficult to guage the distance between the
> nipples. It kind of reminds me of a mulching blade on a lawnmower. There is
> also a hole in each end of the "blade" between each pair of nipples  so you
> can loosen the cam sproket bolt while the cams are held. One thing is for
> sure . DO NOT loosen this bolt if you do not have the tool, all the teeth
> counting in the world wont help you if you do.
> 
> Hope this helps guys , I hope I did not " dis " anyones procedures, this is
> just my 2c ( canadian ) 1.5c US.
> 
> PS I have a procedure if anyone is interested, just email me .