[V6-12v] Removing Bolts and Injectors

Sun Sep 24 10:45:07 EDT 2006

Hi Frank

You drilled it out with the exhaust manifold in place ?

how on earth did you get in their ? it looks impossible on my 90 ...  but 
maybe it would be easier with the cats actually off. I have a FWD manual and 
am having a difficult time finding fitment at a reasonable cost.

Clive
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Frank Chapchuk" <chapchuk at hotmail.com>
To: <cyoung1661 at rogers.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 23, 2006 12:09 AM
Subject: Re: [V6-12v] Removing Bolts and Injectors

> Did both cats on my '92 100. With the car on ramps the fasteners were 
> pretty easy to get at. I did have a few studs break off though. What I did 
> was after the stud broke  off I driled it out and used a bolt and nut 
> instead. (use stainless). No as bad as it sounds. I got the cats at 
> discount converter.com. I'm pretty happy with them.
>
> Frank
>
> ----Original Message Follows----
> From: "Clive Young" <cyoung1661 at rogers.com>
> To: "James Whitehouse" <james_whitehouse1 at yahoo.co.uk>,"'Joe - Audi'" 
> <audi at olderie.com>
> CC: v6-12v at audifans.com
> Subject: Re: [V6-12v] Removing Bolts and Injectors
> Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2006 22:21:25 -0400
>
> great write up James
>
> I have been woried about getting the cats of the exhaust manifolds as I 
> need
> new cats. It looks impossible to get to . It looks like three studs coming
> from the exhaust manifold that go through the cat flange and 3 nuts go on 
> .
> Is this the case and how did you get them off, did you think that one of 
> the
> studs could break >?
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "James Whitehouse" <james_whitehouse1 at yahoo.co.uk>
> To: "'Joe - Audi'" <audi at olderie.com>
> Cc: <v6-12v at audifans.com>
> Sent: Friday, September 22, 2006 12:39 PM
> Subject: Re: [V6-12v] Removing Bolts and Injectors
>
>
> Joe,
>
> The vice grips in combination with the hex key did the job, thanks!
>
> Here are my impressions so far, and a list of things that have been
> problematic. I've copied in the mailing list in case this is useful to
> anyone else in the future.
>
> First of all, I need to clarify that we're doing a more major overhaul 
> than
> just the head gasket replacements. It needed a new clutch too, so the
> decision was made to take out the engine, which means stripping down a
> little more.
>
> Overall, don't attempt it without the manual. It would be a nightmare. At
> the very least make sure you have all the torque settings to hand. Don't
> attempt anything that involves taking off the timing belt unless you have
> access to the special tools 3243 and 3242 (cam locator and crank pin
> respectively):
>
> http://www.big-auto.com/wbstore/main.asp?action=PROD&PROD=VW3243AND3242&CTMP
> =1
>
> Firstly, there are a whole mess of wires and vacuum tubes surrounding and
> attaching to different parts of the top end. I'd label these so you know
> where to put them back. Some of the plugs are colour coded on the 
> baulkhead,
> but aren't obvious at the component end. The vacuum hoses aren't 
> necessarily
> marked.
>
> Secondly, have some little food bags and a permanent marker pen to write 
> on
> them. There are a lot of little bolts, nuts, etc. of different sizes and 
> you
> could very easily get very confused!
>
> Have replacement parts for things like exhaust manifold nuts, exhaust
> manifold-to-cat nuts, etc. ready as well as the obvious gaskets etc. Some 
> of
> those parts are dealer only and some are so seized on that you're always
> going to strip one or two getting in there. Putting new ones on also means
> this is less likely to happen in future.
>
> Some of the intake manifold-to-cylinder head bolts are a pain in the a** 
> to
> get to, as are the valve cover bolts. Make sure you have the right tools. 
> A
> long 5 and 6 mm hex socket is very useful, particularly with a ball end 
> for
> these. While the intake manifold is off, it's silly not to replace the
> intake manifold gaskets, particularly the one that is sandwiched in the
> intake manifold loop itself, as this cannot be changed with the manifold 
> on
> the car, and every time you take the manifold off you have to re-tighten 
> the
> head bolts. To change this you'll have to remove the injectors, so also 
> have
> 6 injector seals (they should come in your head gasket set, Reinz ones are
> very good).
>
> Likewise, it's wise to replace the 'oil retention valves' which sit under
> the little oval cover in the valley of the top of the V. Since otherwise 
> you
> have to take it all apart again if these ever give trouble. Absolutely
> replace the gasket under this cover in any case, as it's a £2 part and is
> renowned for blowing and you do not want to take the intake off just to 
> get
> at that, believe me. I replaced mine about a year and a half ago and I'm
> doing it again now because I'd be mental not to.
>
> Make sure you have ways of dealing with de-threaded nuts, etc. or a friend
> with more experience in case you get stuck. I was lucky that I had a very
> experienced mechanic around (although on the first day he was ill so I did
> most of the strip-down myself). This brings me to another point. Having a
> fully equipped workshop, with a car lift has been tremendously helpful. I
> would almost say that I wouldn't like to attempt this job without one. It
> could certainly be done, but I would leave much longer than normal to do 
> the
> job unless you're very proficient or used to working in this way.
>
> Also very useful is a compressed air line. Among other things this is 
> useful
> for making sure the cylinder bolt holes are free of oil and coolant. 
> Unless
> you clean out those holes properly, you're looking for trouble as any 
> liquid
> down there can get compressed when putting the new cylinder head bolts 
> back
> in and cause hydraulic bottoming out of the head bolts. This firstly means
> they won't tighten fully, and at worse can crack the block under pressure.
>
> This brings us on to another subject, which is oiling the cylinder head
> bolts. They do require a light oiling. This doesn't affect tightening
> torques as the bolts are angle tightened at the last stage. A light oiling
> means spraying a bit of oil onto the bolt while held in a rag, then wiping
> the oily rag around the bolt threads. It is important that there is no
> excess/ dripping amounts of oil as this can have the same effect as not
> cleaning out the bolt holes (see above).
>
> For more info on this, and general cylinder head gasket issues, see:
>
> www.reinz.de/pictures/praxisinfo_3_eng.pdf
>
> www.reinz.de/pictures/praxisinfo_2_eng.pdf
>
> Make sure you have a way of cleaning off the carbon and other crap from 
> the
> mating surfaces before applying the new gasket. My heads are being skimmed 
> a
> fraction just to make sure, but I'm in a shop where they have the 
> equipment
> and expertise to do this in-house.
>
> You may want to have a couple of the little locator pins (like little 
> hollow
> dowels (about 6mm x 22mm) that sit on the upper block and 'locate' the 
> head
> gaskets, essentially holding them in place while you lower the head onto 
> the
> gasket. They can either stay on the block, or in the heads, or shear off.
> The Audi dealer will likely have no idea what you're talking about and try
> to tell you they 'only come with the block'. But they do exist. I'll try 
> to
> post a part number if someone reminds me. Since they are 30 pence each, 
> it's
> better to have new ones in case, rather than having to wait for them to
> arrive if they break.
>
> The only solution I haven't found a problem to yet, is getting the coolant
> out of the block since mine is gunged up down by the bottom drain plug.
> We're hoping this will be easier once the engine is out. If anyone thinks 
> of
> anything or any way they know to get at this from inside the block, please
> let me know!
>
> That's about as far as I've got so far. I'll update and post a few pics at
> some point.
>
> Cheers,
> James
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Joe - Audi [mailto:audi at olderie.com]
> > Sent: 21 September 2006 00:26
> > To: James Whitehouse
> > Subject: Re: [V6-12v] Removing Bolts and Injectors
> >
> >
> > On Sep 20, 2006, at 5:53 PM, James Whitehouse wrote:
> >
> > > Guys,
> > >
> > > I'm halfway into the head gasket stripdown. Two problems:
> > >
> > > Firstly, some monkey before me has rounded out the interior hex of
> > > the valve
> > > cover bolts (two of them). Any tips for removing these short of
> > > drilling
> > > them out? I'm thinking a reverse tap of some kind?
> >
> > Vice-grips have saved me in similar situations before with those
> > types of bolts.  Of course, you may not have enough room in there to
> > get a pair clamped on...
> >
> > -Joe
> >
> > P.S.  I've been anxiously following your thread to hear the results.
> > I need to do the same work on my '94 100 w/ 175k miles but have never
> > performed that type of engine work before.  Not sure if I'm up for
> > the task.  Please let us know how long it takes and what other major
> > issues you run into along the way!
> >
> > --
> > No virus found in this incoming message.
> > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> > Version: 7.1.405 / Virus Database: 268.12.6/453 - Release Date:
> 20/09/2006
> >
>
> --
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.1.405 / Virus Database: 268.12.8/455 - Release Date: 22/09/2006
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___________________________________________________________
> All new Yahoo! Mail "The new Interface is stunning in its simplicity and
> ease of use." - PC Magazine
> http://uk.docs.yahoo.com/nowyoucan.html
> _______________________________________________
> V6-12v mailing list
> V6-12v at audifans.com
> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v6-12v
>
> _______________________________________________
> V6-12v mailing list
> V6-12v at audifans.com
> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v6-12v
>
> 