[V6-12v] reverse lights out on 1995 A6 Wagon... (Rob)

[mike]

I’ve soldered with success in the past but what I do
is make two joints, one either side of the hinge and
replace the actual hinge bit with fresh wire 


--- Mike Veglia <msvphoto at pacbell.net> wrote:

> "Correctly" is a matter of opinion. Truly
> "correctly" is to spring the couple hundred bux and
> several hours of labor to swap the harness. Next
> best "correct" fix for longevity (not to mention a
> second chance to do it again if need be) are butt
> splices.
> 
> In my opinion (Electronic Tech/Engineer for 30+
> years) and in Audi's opinion (there are several TSBs
> on this topic that go into great detail on crimp
> connections and advise against soldering) soldering
> and heat shrink is absolutely NOT the "correct"
> repair for stranded wires that flex and/or vibrate
> (which means just about any wire in a car wire loom,
> especially those in hinges). I am more than capable
> with soldering (and desoldering) equipment, but I do
> not use solder anywhere in my cars except to repair
> bad relays and modules (circuit boards).
> 
> The reason soldering is bad is that where the solder
> ends and the stranded wire begins is a hard flex
> point where the wire will again break much more
> quickly than a crimped splice. In the case of wires
> that pass through a hinge (such as the hatch loom)
> it will be a very short period of time before the
> wires break again at the solder connection. At that
> point you have used up all of your available wire
> and a harness change will be inevitable. 
> 
> There are many good places for (make mine lead
> based) solder. Automotive wires, marine wires, and
> avionics wires are not those places.
> 
> This was the subject of great debate on the q-list a
> few years ago and may be found in the archives
> (including the specific Audi TSBs that forbid use of
> solder on wires on Audi wire looms).
> 
> I do suggest wrapping the cable bundle after repairs
> to help share strain relief across as much area as
> possible to help protect the remaining (unbroken)
> wires and the repaired wires.
> 
> Again, HTH and good luck.
> 
> Mike Veglia
> 
> ----- Original Message ----
> From: Tom Christiansen <tomchr at gmail.com>
> To: Mike Veglia <msvphoto at pacbell.net>
> Cc: beattyr2003 at cox.net; v6-12v at audifans.com
> Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2008 12:25:04 PM
> Subject: Re: [V6-12v] reverse lights out on 1995 A6
> Wagon... (Rob)
> 
> 
> If the harness is the problem (sounds very likely),
> I would suggest fixing it "correctly". Use a
> soldering iron, cover the joints in heat shrink
> tubing, cover the whole thing in heat shrink tubing
> - preferably the type that has glue in it so it
> becomes water tight.
> 
> 
> Heat shrink tubing should be available at any
> electronic parts store (Radio Shack for example) or
> at many auto parts stores. Obviously, this assumes
> you have a soldering iron, heat gun, and ability to
> use both.
> 
> 
> I fixed the harness in my 1994 90S that way. Works
> great and doesn't take up much more space than the
> original harness.
> 
> Tom
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 



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