[V8] Re: 1990 Audi Quattro - converting from bose...

Michael Larosa Jr Mc.Larosa at Sun.COM
Wed Dec 10 07:54:00 EST 2003


aqhh, what the heck, here is the writeup...

Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2002 09:54:43 -0500 (EST)
From: Mike Larosa <mlarosa at winston500.east>
Subject: Re: Radios, details of swapping out the Bose.
To: v8 at audifans.com
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-MD5: QkbeEuWjYIrtRIZy2DDlaA==



>From a post I sent on Decmeber 18, 2002 ... :-)



Bose:

I just gave up on my Bose yesterday.  Front driver side speaker making a
loud burbling noise, no music....  I put in my old Alpine am/fm/cassette
with 100 watts.  I ran I think it's 12 guage flat monster cable to all
4 speakers(Radio Shack 50 feet). Works pretty good :-)  lot of labor, but 
it cost me a total of probably $25.- in speaker wire and connectors :-)  
I'll do a large "How To" write up and post later.  It's probably a 4-6
hour project.....


Okay so I didn't do the write up...  busy at work....  :-(


Jan 2, 2002 update.....


A little more detail:

Parts:

- Alpine am/fm/cassette,  was $425.- new about 5 years ago.

- 50 Feet of flat monster cable from Radio Shack,  $20.-



- not sure what you call these, but one is a flat rectangular, this
  would be the male side, and the female counterpart...  Let's
  see, needed 20 of these.
  
  	4 for each speaker wire pair. 
  	
  	2 for the power and ground.
  	
- Wire stripper 	
- Multimeter
- Small Phillips screw driver
- allen wrench to remove door panels
- deep socket to remove rear speaker covers in trunk
- small size metric sockets, although I used english..
  (The Not Soon Enough To Be Ex Wife still has my tool box.... Don't ask)
- black electrical tape of course :-)

- a thick metal hanger, unless you allready have the stereo removal
  u shaped tools....
  
How to do it:

- Do you know the security code to your radio ?  if not, think hard
  about yanking it,  you'll have to go to the dealer to get the code
  if you ever want to re-install it....
  

- I started with the fronts.

	Pull up both carpets in front, both side panels on the center
	console, the plastic panel cover for the relays, the panel 
	covering the fuses.
	
	You'll have to unscrew the bracket for the hood pull on the
	driver side panel,  then the nut on the bottom of that panel
	near the brake pedal. Remove the panel.
	
	Remove the knee panel below the steering wheel.
	
	Now take off the door panels,  this is where ya need that allen
	wrench and small phillips.  The procedure is in the archives...
	
	Once the panel is off, you can see the bose plastic boxes.
	
	Take the whole box off, then unscrew the cover, yes there 
	are lots of screws :-)
	
	The speakers terminals are labled + and -  pull those 
	connections.
	
	Cut and crimp some lugs on the monster cable and attach.
	
	DON'T CUT THE WIRE OFF THE SPOOL YET.
	
	I used flat cable 'cause it followed the other wires nicely
	and fit under the strain relief :-)
	
	Fit the box to the door loosely....
	
	
	The Fun Part:
	
	You get to test snake that wire to get an idea of how long
	it needs to be.
	
	I snaked through the door along the bottom inside, through
	the door boot, then it went just below the steering wheel
	and into the center console area,  Give yourself an extra foot
	of wire.  It would really suck to have it to short.....
	
	
	Cut it, and start the actual snaking.....  
	
	Repeat for the other door panel.
	
	
- Okay know for the rear speakers:
	
	Pull out the bottom back seat and those plastic moldings
	that cover the door sill.
	
	Head for the trunk with your deep socket set.
	
	Remove both speakers.
	
	NOTE:  Be carefull the magnet of the speaker doesn't yank the
	socket into the plastic housing.... Don't ask why I posted
	this note.... okay I'll tell ya...  The socket wasn't attached
	tight enough to the wrench... apparently... and when I put the
	screwdriver with the socket on the nut,  it got pulled clean off
	the socket and it got stuck inside.  I spent about 10 minutes 
	trying to get out with no luck.  I grabbed a beer and pondered, 
	then I simply broke a few plastic pieces off the side of the 
	plastic cover and pulled it out.... not pretty... :-(
	
	
	Allrighty, same drill as the front speakers,  disconnect the 
	circular connector, then pull off the 2 wires to the speaker
	terminals, I don't remember if these are labled, but the smaller
	terminal is positive.  This is how the fronts are.
	
	Connect the monster cable to the speakers,  test snake it with the 
	other wire in the plastic housing.
	
	run the cable out over the side of the car into the back seat and
	follow the door sill to the front,  follow the same path as the front
	cables at this point.  again give yourself an extra foot and cut it.
	
	Okay, now pull the black felt away on the rear fender, right where 
	the speaker bolts up, you should see a hole to route the wire through.
	
	Push through a couple of feet, now pull the vertical part of the
	rear seat forward a little from the side, hopefully you can see the 
	wire.  Pull it through, carefull not to pull to hard and pull the 
	speaker itself into the rear bulkhead :-)
	
	I pushed that flat cable into the door sill channel so that it
	just fit underneath those silver clips, than ran it at a 90 on the
	front door sill,  follow the front door wire.....
	
	You get to figure out which wires on your deck are for your
	speakers :-)
	
	

	
- Removing the radio.

	
	Cut up the hanger into to 2 pieces approx 8" long, bend it into
	a U shape.  The tops of the U need to match the 2 vertical holes
	on either side of your radio. 
	
	Push them into the holes, then put pressure on them towards
	the doors.  Pull.....
	
	
	Disconnect the connectors....

		
- This is what I did for power.....
	
	
	I got out the multimeter and probed I believe a yellow wire
	on the connector that comes out of the back of the bose. It is a 
	constant power.  You can choose a wire that's only on with the
	key on,  but my deck has a clock, so I wanted constant power.


	I didn't want to permently cut any of the original wires, so	
	I trimmed about a half inch of plastic from the wire, then 
	twisted the half inch of that exposed copper like a twist tie,
	put a spade on there and crimped it.  
	
	Did this for the ground wire as well.


Luckily my deck fits perfectly in the hole, with just a little bit
of tension.


Know you get to power it up and see if everything works, put all the panels
and such back together.


Good Luck!




	
    _/_/_/  _/    _/  _/     _/      Mike LaRosa
   _/      _/    _/  _/_/   _/       TSE - HAS
  _/_/_/  _/    _/  _/  _/ _/        1 Network Drive
     _/  _/    _/  _/   _/_/         Burlington, MA 01803
_/_/_/   _/_/_/   _/     _/          			 				     		 
E N T E R P R I S E		     Phone:	781/442-1250
  S E R V I C E S		     Fax:       781/442-1418
				     Email:	mlarosa at east.sun.com


Michael Larosa Jr wrote:
> 
> Scott/Ingo,
> 
> I've got a writeup I did a few years back on how to convert from Bose to a
> standard stereo install...
> 
> I can post if ya like :)
> 
> Mike LaRosa
> ex-V8 owner
> 
> Ingo Rautenberg wrote:
> >
> > Scott,
> >
> > Welcome and congratulations!  You'll find the v8 handles the snowy stuff with aplomb, provided you have either good all-season or preferably dedicated snows.  I'll send you some aftermarket stereo install advice I've garnered from the list recently under separate cover.  Needless to say if you're ditching the Bose system, you'll have to rewire all the speakers using new aftermarket speakers and preferably a couple 2 channel amps or a single for channel amp, at least.  High idle can be due to a number of things -- possibly you're idle stabilizer is stuck or you may have vacuum/breather hose leaks or your idle switch isn't adjusted properly.  try unplugging the connector to the ISV -  the closest electrical plug to you on the intake manifold when looking at the engine when standing in front of the car -- The idle stabilizer looks like a black cylinder laying on its side and is fasted with 3 10mm nuts (usually acorn style).  If there's no change, then I'd guess the valve is!
  s!
>  ticking.
> > by removing these three nuts you can remove the valve and clean it using a throttle body cleaner/lubricant, moving the valve back and forth by hand.
> >
> > As for mods -- how big is your pocketbook?  Seriously, the most common engine mod is a more responsive chip for the engine computer -- see http:///intendedacceleration.com
> >
> > Aside from that, suspension upgrades including lowering springs, various strut inserts/shocks are available -- but I'd save those for spring.
> >
> > HTH
> >
> > Ingo
> >
> > Btw, I just noticed you found Me through My Site.  Somehow I thought you found the v8 list -- and I'm copying them on this response.  I suggest you join the v8 list (no cost and lots of valuable info):  See http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8
> >
> > There are also archives available (or there were until recently -- the list was just moved to a much faster server), where you can search for help on things already covered.
> >
> >   ----- Original Message -----
> >   From: Scott
> >   To: ingo at waratap.com
> >   Sent: Tuesday, December 09, 2003 10:20 PM
> >   Subject: 1990 Audi Quattro
> >
> >   I just purchased 1990 Pearl white Quattro V8. I was looking around for information on the car when i found your site. These cars are fantastic. I was just wondering what modifications are available for these. What wheels and tires should i put on, i have the stock rims which need a little touching up. What about for winter i live near Buffalo, N.Y. and snow is coming soon. How does it handle in the snow? Mine idles a little high, i need to figure out what is causing that. Also what can i do for a stereo system. The stock system is not working properly, only has sound on the right side and it is weak from the stock Bose system. If you have time any help/advise or where to look for answers would be greatly appreciated. Other than those small problems the car is spotless, and runs great. I have all the repair records on the car, the trans has been worked on 2 years ago and all the timing belt and sensors have been replaced.
> >
> >   Thanks ,  Scott
> >
> > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> >
> >   Do you Yahoo!?
> >   New Yahoo! Photos - easier uploading and sharing
> >
> >   ---
> >   Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
> >   Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
> >   Version: 6.0.547 / Virus Database: 340 - Release Date: 12/2/2003
> > _______________________________________________
> > V8 mailing list
> > V8 at audifans.com
> > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8
> 
> --
> 
>     _/_/_/  _/    _/  _/     _/      Mike LaRosa
>    _/      _/    _/  _/_/   _/       TSE - HAS
>   _/_/_/  _/    _/  _/  _/ _/        1 Network Drive
>      _/  _/    _/  _/   _/_/         Burlington, MA 01803
> _/_/_/   _/_/_/   _/     _/
>   S U N                              Phone: 781/442-1250
>   S E R V I C E S                    Fax: 781/442-1418
>                                      Email:mc.larosa at sun.com
> _______________________________________________
> V8 mailing list
> V8 at audifans.com
> http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8

-- 

    _/_/_/  _/    _/  _/     _/      Mike LaRosa
   _/      _/    _/  _/_/   _/       TSE - HAS
  _/_/_/  _/    _/  _/  _/ _/        1 Network Drive
     _/  _/    _/  _/   _/_/         Burlington, MA 01803
_/_/_/   _/_/_/   _/     _/
  S U N                              Phone: 781/442-1250
  S E R V I C E S                    Fax: 781/442-1418
                                     Email:mc.larosa at sun.com


More information about the V8 mailing list