[V8] motor mounts R&R 90 V8

[dsaad at icehouse.net]

If there is a gap in the torque stop pieces, the motor mounts are likely toast.
If you can not remove the IAC without first removing the engine fan shroud, 
they are toast.
The gap from sub-frame to oil pan would also be a sure fire test but I don't 
know what the distance should be.
If you get a clunk under your feet under hard acceleration, they could be toast 
but this could also be a bent cross member (courtesy of your local tire shop) 
or the exhaust pipes are hanging a little low.

Basically, if they are original they are probably shot. You will be amazed they 
were able to hold your motor in. I pulled the engine mounting stud out of my 
old mount by hand. 

The new ones have a heat shield that hopefully will make them last longer.

Dave





Quoting "Korn, Bob" <Bob.Korn at Fike.com>:

> The shudder I feel only lasts for a few seconds, then the engine pulls
> smoothly to redline. It's been their for awhile, I notice the torque
> stop
> was separated about 20K ago.  Haven't examined the motor mounts yet, is
> it
> obvious when they are collapsed?  
> TIA
> 
> 
> Bob
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ron Wainwright [ma
ilto:ron_01056 at yahoo.com]

> Sent: Tuesday, April 27, 2004 12:19 PM
> To: Korn, Bob
> Cc: v8 at audifans.com; quattro at audifans.com
> Subject: RE: [V8] motor mounts R&R 90 V8
> 
> 
> 
>  A very severe vibration under our feet when putting
> the hammer down. Which made us look at the mounts &
> from what we seen they both were collapsed.
>  Hope this helps.
> Thanks
> Ron
> 
> 
> --- "Korn, Bob" <Bob.Korn at Fike.com> wrote:
> > Aside from any visible damage, what symptoms did you
> > notice with the worn
> > motor mounts?
> > My torque stop is toast, and I have a slight shudder
> > during initial
> > acceleration, around 1600 rpm, feels like a miss,
> > was wondering if this
> > could be the mounts???
> > 
> > 
> > Bob
> > 90 V8Q Pearl 136K
> > 
> > 
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: cobram at juno.com [mailto
:cobram at juno.com]
> > Sent: Monday, April 26, 2004 4:06 PM
> > To: ron_01056 at yahoo.com
> > Cc: v8 at audifans.com; quattro at audifans.com
> > Subject: Re: [V8] motor mounts R&R 90 V8
> > 
> > 
> > Ron Wainwright <ron_01056 at yahoo.com> writes:
> >  
> > >   A friend of mine (not a lister) needs to R&R his
> > > motor mounts on a 90 V8, having never done this
> > before
> > > I was wondering if any lister can help with any
> > BTDT?
> > >  Looks like the header pipes are in the way to get
> > to
> > > the top nut. Would using a crows foot be the best
> > way
> > > (as not to rip the engine bay apart),don't want to
> > > open any more cans of worms than is allready open.
> > 
> > Here's an old post on how I did it many moons ago:
> > 
> > From: Cobram at juno.com
> > To: v8q at u.washington.edu
> >  
> >  
> > Finally got around to changing the long ago
> > purchased motor mounts on the
> > 1990 V8Q. Here is a quick step by step for anyone
> > wanting it: Remove the
> > bottom engine cover.  I suggest using a pair of bent
> > vice grips to hold the
> > rubber vibration dampers on the engine cover when
> > you remove the 10mm nuts
> > holding the cover on. Remove the two side air
> > intakes on top with the same
> > 10mm socket. Remove the heat shields on both sides
> > of the engine headers.
> > (10mm "speed" nuts-like the ones that used to hold
> > your "Big Wheels" pedals
> > on) You'll have JUST barely enough room to fit a
> > 17mm universal socket (a
> > regular socket with a universal on it will NOT fit)
> > with a THIN extension on
> > it over the top motor mount nut through the header
> > pipe on the right side.
> > The Left side top nut can only be removed with a box
> > end 17mm angle wrench.
> > (to get over the sides of the engine mount.) There
> > isn't enough room to get
> > an extension through the headers on this
> > side.   To remove the bottom bolts on the motor
> > mounts, loosen the 4 sub
> > frame bolts and drop the sub frame enough to fit the
> > same 17mm universal on
> > the two bottom nuts.  LOTS of penetrating oil
> > recommended, as these bolts
> > get tight, and they are LONG. Once the nuts and
> > bolts are off the motor
> > mounts, lift the engine up with a jack. The best
> > place I've found for
> > lifting the left side is to place a 2X4 on the jack
> > and lift with the top of
> > the 2X4 on the nuts that hold the AC compressor on.
> > For the right side,
> > placing the top of the 2X4 on the alternator bracket
> > against the engine
> > worked well.  Lift enough to give you clearance to
> > remove the old engine
> > mount and install the new ones. As per Audi norms,
> > "installation is reverse
> > of removal."
> >  
> > One "gotcha" that happened to me..... One of bottom
> > motor mounts bolts was
> > so corroded that I spun the welded-pressed in nut
> > that the bolt goes
> > through.  Needed an extra set of hands to hold the
> > bolt while I turned the
> > nut from the top.  Replaced it, but this time I put
> > the bolt in from the top
> > and the nut on the bottom....for when I do this
> > again in ten years.
> > 
> > BCNU,
> > http://www.geocities.com/cobramsri/