[V8] WOT - the return! Other minor problems 4.2 V8Q

[Tony and Lillie]

> throttle, but yesterday came out nowhere.  So, what's
> the deal?  Again, now the car seems to have no
> problem.  Is it likely that the cruise control rod is
> sticking somewhere?  The cruise doesn't function as of
> now.
>

That's the first thing I'd check, as it is one of the few things that could 
cause it io stick intermittently like that.

> Next set of problems - Radio is in safe mode - only
> way is to go to the dealer to get the code?  I don't
> seem to have it.

Yes, as Mike said, call the dealer with the serial # off the radio. Best way 
is to bring it in to the dealer. I have one right in front of me, and 
couldn't tell you which number is the serial. It is removed with a U shaped 
tool available at Autozone. The codes are set holding in the Ari-z and AM 
buttons for about a second or two, then 1000 appears. Use one through four 
for setting each # place. Then hold in the Ari-z and AM buttons again. 
Should work. If not, wrong code. IIRC three tries puts it it Hard Safe Mode. 
Then, you have to leave the radio on with the key on for about 1-2 hours. 
Then try again.

>Neither front or rear defroster
> works.  The climate system does work, but no air at
> all comes out of the top of the dash.  This could get
> tricky in the winter (already has on Friday, when it
> was humid and rainy here!).

You will probably need the factory manual to fix these. There is a controler 
under the passenger side of the dash, with a lot of vacuum lines going to 
it. Its lines are the control for which vent gets turned on, etc. If you had 
to, I suppose you could just hook the feed line to the defrost till you get 
time to properly sort it out.

> Cruise doesn't work, and
> the locks don't work - I can lock the car up from
> inside, or I can lock the driver's door from outside,
> but the other locks won't function with the key.  They
> do lock from inside though.  Strange.

Does the central lock switch work? if so, you have a broken linkage from the 
lock cylinder to the actuator on the drivers door. You'll have to take the 
door panel off to fix this. There are three allen screws in the bottom of 
the armrest that hold it in.

> Still has a
> pulsing of power at very light (cruising) throttle -
> one member suggested oxygen sensor?

Probably, if you replace it, it has been recommended that you use the 4-wire 
for a 1993 Ford F150. I've successfully put four of these in and can tell 
you I'm very happy with the results. I use a piece of the Ford harness as 
well, to ease future changes. Oh, and they are only about $45, as opposed to 
$100+ for factory.

> ABS OFF light is
> on.  I'd like to have the ABS operational, if
> possible.  Ideas?  When I was under the car yesterday,
> there is a bracket under the caliper which has a plug
> on it, and two wires coming out.  The wires on both
> sides are cut - are these the ABS sensors?

These could be, but more than likely they are the pad wear indicators. Does 
the light come on immediately after startup, or do you have to drive the car 
a bit first. If immediate, then it's probably not the sensors. I've had two 
cars (V8, 5000Q) with bad sensors, and both required about 200 feet (a 
guess) or so to turn off the ABS.

> Finally,
> one of the fog lights is out - are they H3 bulbs?
>
> Thanks for all the help, as always.  I looked like a
> pro yesterday ripping the intake out of the car in my
> church-going attire.
> Carter
>

Sounds like you fit right in here then :-)

Tony Hoffman