[V8] questions

[Dave Head]

Faxed the pages over.
Oil leaks - major players:
1 - distributer seals (most likely) - large o-ring seals on the body of 
the distributor. After removing the cap, there are 2 hold down bolts. 
The body is pinned to maintain alighment, there is no gear for the rotor 
drive (slotted), just note the direction the rotor is pointing. The leak 
goes directly onto the header as it angles down. Feel the bottom of the 
distrib body - if wet, that's a source...
2 - Rack  (second most likely) - with the upper engine cover off and the 
intake box removed (4 bolts for the engine cover, phillip screws at the 
back that are hidden, remove brace bar to get the screwdriver down there 
to back them out (I usually leave these backed out for easier removal). 
2 nuts hold the intake box on.
Reach down and feel the bottom of the rack boot - if wet and really 
sticky, and the boot is torn, your rack is leaking onto the h pipe. This 
is a real pain in the ass job - I've done it 3 times. 6-8 hours of work. 
The rack comes out the passenger side wheel well. Around $250.00 rebuilt 
from Jorgen.
3. Rack hoses - the short return hose can loose its crimp and leak on 
the driver's side - look behind the master cylinder.
4. Rear main seal - the most evil - trans job is 10 hours of labor. You 
need a lift. To verify, remove the engine sensors on the driver's side 
of the engine toward the back - if they're wet, its probable. This is 
relatively rare. I had one that was actually an upper pan gasket leaking 
(there's a cast upper oil pan, and a stamped steel lower pan).

Typical water temp is pretty tough, really - it should be 87-100C. If 
you're moving down the highway - 87. In town, slow traffic - 100-102. 
Cold weather can drag it down. If in the summer it tends to be low and 
running rough, your O2 sensor can be toast. Your mileage will be too 
(10-12).
If temp exceeds 105-110 in traffic and stays cool on the highway - time 
to replace the radiator.


Z1 Performance wrote:

> thanks Dave - fax is below!
>  
> We'll be tackling the alternator and gas gauge tomorrow or Monday 
> night, then the window regulator.  The distributor caps were quite a 
> PIA to get off...one came of ok (driver side), passenger one we 
> basically had to break apart to get off....they were shot.
>  
> Also noticed the horn does not work and coincidentally the airbag 
> light is on - any ideas?
>  
> I also have some smoke coming from the engine bay - I am thinking rear 
> main seal as its a bit wet back there.  Is this another "bear" of a 
> job?  Plan is after the alternator is in, to degrease underneath and 
> let the car sit for a bit on some cardboard to see where exactly the 
> leak is.  I suppose it could also be a distributor, as they are 
> located right above the exhaust, so I guess it's possible for them to 
> leak and drip downward.
>  
> Oh one more question (hehehe...hope I am not overshooting my daily 
> quota!) - what's the typical water temperature needle location 
> supposed to be when its all warmed up?
>  
> Adam
> Z-1 Performance, Inc.
> www.z1auto.com <http://www.z1auto.com>
> (631)863-3820 Tel.
> (631)863-3821 Fax
>
>     ----- Original Message -----
>     From: Dave Head <mailto:v8q at bellsouth.net>
>     To: Z1 Performance <mailto:z1sales at z1auto.com>
>     Sent: Saturday, January 08, 2005 5:55 PM
>     Subject: Re: [V8] alternator replacment
>
>     Got a fax? I can fax the relevent pages out of the manual to you
>     in the
>     morning...
>     Get the front end up in the air, remove lower engine cover
>     Remove air horn to alternator
>     Remove wire clamp on alternator
>     Remove the small cover on the back of the alternator.
>     Disconnect battery - make sure you have radio code if oem
>     I usually drop the oil cooler for more room - remove the 2 10mm
>     bolts on
>     each end of the cooler. Push it back out of the way, leaving the
>     lines
>     connected.
>     Disconnect wiring on alternator.
>     Depress serpentine tensioner - you can use a small drill bit to
>     hold it
>     in place (there's a little hole that is uncovered as it moves up an
>     releives tension, remove serpentine belt.
>     Remove alternator. Many people remove the heat shield on the
>     passenger
>     side to better access the rear upper bolt. The upper bolts are
>     about the
>     1:00 oclock position viewed from the front. The lower bolt is at 5:00.
>
>     Z1 Performance wrote:
>
>     >Anywhere I can find a write up on this?  About to tackle it :)
>     >
>     >So far we've done (today) - full tune (plugs, wires, cap, rotor,
>     filters)
>     >
>     >After alternator - swap in Goodridge stainless brake lines
>     (drivers side one is all dry rotted and leaking).
>     >
>     >Also, I don't have the UFO brakes from the looks of it - while
>     the rotor hat is different that I am used to seeing on the
>     Japanese cars we work on, it's got a standard caliper
>     configuration. - pads look ok and rotors have no grooves, so going
>     to keep them for now.
>     >
>     >After the above, we'll replace the window regulator and try to
>     figure out the fuel gauge...then (I hope), she's ready for winter :)
>     >
>     >Adam
>     >Z-1 Performance, Inc.
>     >www.z1auto.com
>     >(631)863-3820 Tel.
>     >(631)863-3821 Fax
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