[V8] answer pt2

[Dave Head]

Oh - airbag light - if it goes off after 3 minutes you have a power loss 
code that needs to be cleared by the dealer or Vag-com/shadetree 
software. If it doesn't go off, you may have a bad spiral spring - bad 
juju, over 300 bucks. Vagcom (www.ross-tech.com) software can read/clear 
the codes, otherwise dealer. The connector is behind the driver's side 
of the console, behind the radio - and you need the 2x2 connector shown 
on the Vagcom site too...
You can get a used spiral spring from any 90-94 Audi and it should work.

Z1 Performance wrote:

> thanks Dave - fax is below!
>  
> We'll be tackling the alternator and gas gauge tomorrow or Monday 
> night, then the window regulator.  The distributor caps were quite a 
> PIA to get off...one came of ok (driver side), passenger one we 
> basically had to break apart to get off....they were shot.
>  
> Also noticed the horn does not work and coincidentally the airbag 
> light is on - any ideas?
>  
> I also have some smoke coming from the engine bay - I am thinking rear 
> main seal as its a bit wet back there.  Is this another "bear" of a 
> job?  Plan is after the alternator is in, to degrease underneath and 
> let the car sit for a bit on some cardboard to see where exactly the 
> leak is.  I suppose it could also be a distributor, as they are 
> located right above the exhaust, so I guess it's possible for them to 
> leak and drip downward.
>  
> Oh one more question (hehehe...hope I am not overshooting my daily 
> quota!) - what's the typical water temperature needle location 
> supposed to be when its all warmed up?
>  
> Adam
> Z-1 Performance, Inc.
> www.z1auto.com <http://www.z1auto.com>
> (631)863-3820 Tel.
> (631)863-3821 Fax
>
>     ----- Original Message -----
>     From: Dave Head <mailto:v8q at bellsouth.net>
>     To: Z1 Performance <mailto:z1sales at z1auto.com>
>     Sent: Saturday, January 08, 2005 5:55 PM
>     Subject: Re: [V8] alternator replacment
>
>     Got a fax? I can fax the relevent pages out of the manual to you
>     in the
>     morning...
>     Get the front end up in the air, remove lower engine cover
>     Remove air horn to alternator
>     Remove wire clamp on alternator
>     Remove the small cover on the back of the alternator.
>     Disconnect battery - make sure you have radio code if oem
>     I usually drop the oil cooler for more room - remove the 2 10mm
>     bolts on
>     each end of the cooler. Push it back out of the way, leaving the
>     lines
>     connected.
>     Disconnect wiring on alternator.
>     Depress serpentine tensioner - you can use a small drill bit to
>     hold it
>     in place (there's a little hole that is uncovered as it moves up an
>     releives tension, remove serpentine belt.
>     Remove alternator. Many people remove the heat shield on the
>     passenger
>     side to better access the rear upper bolt. The upper bolts are
>     about the
>     1:00 oclock position viewed from the front. The lower bolt is at 5:00.
>
>     Z1 Performance wrote:
>
>     >Anywhere I can find a write up on this?  About to tackle it :)
>     >
>     >So far we've done (today) - full tune (plugs, wires, cap, rotor,
>     filters)
>     >
>     >After alternator - swap in Goodridge stainless brake lines
>     (drivers side one is all dry rotted and leaking).
>     >
>     >Also, I don't have the UFO brakes from the looks of it - while
>     the rotor hat is different that I am used to seeing on the
>     Japanese cars we work on, it's got a standard caliper
>     configuration. - pads look ok and rotors have no grooves, so going
>     to keep them for now.
>     >
>     >After the above, we'll replace the window regulator and try to
>     figure out the fuel gauge...then (I hope), she's ready for winter :)
>     >
>     >Adam
>     >Z-1 Performance, Inc.
>     >www.z1auto.com
>     >(631)863-3820 Tel.
>     >(631)863-3821 Fax
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