[V8] RE: Emailing: 006977

Tue Jun 14 11:14:19 EDT 2005

"How does the instrument cluster come out?"

You will have to remove the upper dash to get to the instrument panel.  
Unfortunately audifans does not allow picture post, but i have diagrams at

http://account.audiworld.com/users/36396.phtml
http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/36396/dash-cover.jpg

There are approx. 8 screw to remove see diagram.

HTH

>
>Thanks.  I also assumed the speed sensor code was because I ran codes
>without the engine running (same on the 20vt motronic, which is very
>similar in most ways).  Didn't think about the brake light switch being
>the same issue; will recheck codes next time before I shut the engine
>off.
>
>First priority is the knock sensor (especially since it is the first
>code listed).  I took apart and cleaned the connector for KS1 (passenger
>side) yesterday while replacing the fuel pressure regulator and it
>seemed fine.  I'll look again, and check for continuity between any of
>the pins (meaning a short).  I assume I need to pull off the intake
>manifold to check the sensor torque/cleanliness of the block.  Does this
>require new gaskets?  Easy or difficult task?  If it is a lot of hassle,
>I may swap out the $50 sensor at the same time.
>
>Idle speed is low; didn't note how low on the tach (need to change the
>bulbs illuminating the tach so I can see it at night).  No stumbles.
>How does the instrument cluster come out?
>
>Chris
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Jeremy Ward [mailto:jward.v8 at gmail.com]
>Sent: Sunday, June 12, 2005 1:51 PM
>To: Miller, Chris
>Cc: v8 at audifans.com
>Subject: Re: [V8] '93 V8: some progress, but now new codes.
>
>I had a similar issue a few years ago when I first pulled the codes on
>my V8.  It was pointed out to me that the motor should be running when
>you pull the codes, otherwise you will get an engine speed sensor error.
>Also, when you start the car, most people put their foot on the brake to
>do so; if you don't, you will get the brake light switch code.
>
>My guess on the knock sensor is the connector on the fuel rail.  Over
>the years, the heat kills the plastic connector housing and it will
>crumble to dust if you look at it sideways.  I had to McGuiver mine
>together one day after bumping it ;-)  Take off the air filter cover
>(3 screws, 4 bolts) to access the connectors - they should be zip tied
>to the fuel rails, one on each side.  Make sure they are intact and
>connected.
>
>Sorry, no experience with idle speed too low...  Does it stumble at
>idle?  Where does the needle sit at idle?  600RPM?
>
>ECU and TCU are located behind the driver's knee bolster and are stacked
>one on top of the other.
>
>Good luck!
>
>- Jeremy
>
>On 6/12/05, Miller, Chris <chris.miller at infofoundry.com> wrote:
> >
> > New codes.
> >
> > 2142   (00524)  G61 Knock Sensor 1 - No change in signal .  Symptom:
> > high fuel consumption, power loss.  Corrective measure:  tightening
> > torque 20 Nm, or correct open or short circuit.
> > ---
> > 2231   (00533)  Idle Speed Regulation - Maximum adaptation limit
> > exceeded.  Symptom:  idle speed too low.  Corrective measure:  Check
> > N71 IAC valve; check G70 MAF, check G19 (also MAF?) Could be:  IAC
> > binding when closed.  MAF offset.  Terminal resistance at connector of
>
> > N71
> > ---
> > 2111  (00513)  Engine speed (RPM) sensor - no change in signal.
> > Symptom:  engine does not start; misfires; engine stalls.  Check
> > sensor and repair short or open circuit.
> > Condition:  Foreign material on sensor.  Mounting base loose.
> > Distance greater than 1.2mm to flywheel.  Broken teeth on flywheel.
> > Open circuit/short circuit.
> > ---
> > 2131  (00518)  Brake light switch (F) - Open circuit, or defective
> > switch.
> >
> >
> > Idle speed is low, but never stalls.  Engine starts and seems to run
> > fine, with the check engine light occasionally coming on.  I cleaned
> > the knock sensor harness connector yesterday; no effect.  I cleaned
> > out the IAC valve, and found some corrosion in the lower pin of the
>connector.
> > Cleaned that too; no effect.
> >
> > Next step is to figure out where the ECU is located (under driver's
> > side
> > dash?) and clean the connector there.  Then figure out the knock
> > sensor issue, then find the connector for the RPM sensor (sounds like
> > it is driver's side near the O2 sensor connector).  Then look at/swap
> > out the brake light switch.
> >
> >
> >
> > ---
> > Chris Miller
> > Training Development
> > [i] The Information Foundry at Robert Bentley, Inc.
> > Tel: 617.528.4113
> > Cell: 617.875.3792
> > mailto:chris.miller at infofoundry.com
> > http://www.infofoundry.com
> > _______________________________________________
> > Audifans V8 mailing list
> > Send posts to: mailto:V8 at audifans.com
> > Manage your list connection:
> > http://www.audifans.com/mailman/listinfo/v8
> > Have an Audi V8 question?  Check the Audifans Knowledgebase!
> > http://www.audi-quattro.org/cgi-bin/twiki/view/Audi/V8
> > Have a V8 answer? ... Please help others by adding to the KB ... all
>contributions welcome!
> >
>
>--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>   a.. Previous message: [V8] '93 V8: some progress, but now new codes.
>   b.. Next message: [V8] FW: Emailing: 006977
>   c.. Messages sorted by: [ date ] [ thread ] [ subject ] [ author ]
>
>--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>More information about the V8 mailing list