[V8] rack install notes

[dsaad at icehouse.net]

I finished putting in my rack last night, and came up with a few tips to help
the next guy.
First off, I just replaced the boot so some of this may not apply if you are
doing a swap out.

First, the removal: (this is on a 1991 5-speed)
I removed both distributors and coils, the plug wire tray, both fuel lines, the
rubber boot thingy on the right side tie rod opening, both front wheels.
If you had a reason to remove the coolant pipe at the back of the motor (like to
replace the o-rings) this would help too.
You do not need to mess with transmission bolts on the 5-speed.
The manual also says to loosen the Procon bracket - but I did not have to. Maybe
this is only on the automatics?

The trick:
after all the above stuff is removed, it is time to remove the rack and damper.
Remove the steering column coupler.
Remove the right side rack bolt.
Next remove the left side bolts that mount the rack to the fender wall.
After you remove the bolts, go into the left wheel well and re-install the bolts
in the threaded holes they just came out of.
This makes it so the rack can not twist, but you can swing the right end toward
the motor.
With the rack in this position, you can use a ratchet with a long extension and
19mm socket to remove the oil lines. The extensions are long enough to put the
ratchet near the right end of the rack. With the fuel lines off you can easily
crack loose the banjo bolts. Cover up the banjos, push them up out of the way,
remove the servotronic connection, and back out the two bolts in the left fender
well.
Now work the rack out through the right tie rod opening.
I found that the wheel/tie rod had to be fully in (hard right turn) for the rack
to fit out. It looks imposible but it does fit. You need a big assortment of
swear words. You also have to re-position the tie rod a few times.

To replace the boot, you need to take off some oil lines. Be sure to have all
the new o-rings handy.
Also, be sure to put the tie-rod bracket on - making sure it is properly sealed
in the boot holes, before you put the rack in the car.


I think that pretty much covers it. My only hitches were I forgot the tie rod
bracket so I had to remove the rack again, and even though I was ever so
careful, I forgot to put the rack return line back on at the tank. For those
interested, it takes about 30 seconds for the pump to empty the oil tank onto
the garage floor at idle speed.

Dave