[V8] Engine is out!

[cobram at juno.com]

d saad" <dsaad at icehouse.net> writes:
 
> I did come across a sort of
> chicken and egg problem concerning the exhaust headers though - you 
> can not get the manifolds off without lifting the motor a little, and 
> you can not lift the motor without removing the motor mount nuts -
which you 
> can not get to without removing the manifolds. 
 
Your memory is going Dave, "only" 5 years or so and thousands of posts
later and you've already forgotten.  ;-P
 
The V8Q archives don't go back this far, so here's a repost:
 
From: Cobram at juno.com
To: dsaad at bmailed.com
Cc: v8 at audifans.com
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 20:56:50 -0500
Subject: Re: [V8] Engine mounting
 
No need to remove anything major.  Here's my post of the procedure from
many moons ago, no archives on the ole V8 list, so they'll be here now:

Finally got around to changing the long ago purchased motor mounts on the
1990 V8Q.  Here is a quick step by step:
Remove the bottom engine cover.  I suggest using a pair of bent vice
grips to hold the rubber vibration dampers on the engine cover when you
remove the 10mm nuts holding the cover on.  Remove the two side air
intakes on top with the same 10mm socket.
Remove the heat shields on both sides of the engine headers. (10mm
"speed" nuts-like the ones that used to hold your "Big Wheels" pedals on)
You'll have JUST barely enough room to fit a 17mm universal socket (a
regular socket with a universal on it will NOT fit) with a THIN extension
on it over the top motor mount nut through the header pipe on the right
side.  The Left side top nut can only be removed with a box end 17mm
angle wrench. (to get over the sides of the engine mount.)There isn't
enough room to get an extension through the headers on this side.  

To remove the bottom bolts on the motor mounts, loosen the 4 subframe
bolts and drop the subframe enough to fit the same 17mm universal on the
two bottom nuts.  LOTS of penetrating oil recommended, as these bolts get
tight, and they are LONG.    Once the nuts and bolts are off the motor
mounts, lift the engine up with a jack.
The best place I've found for lifting the left side is to place a 2X4 on
the jack and lift with the top of the 2X4 on the nuts that hold the AC
compressor on.  For the right side, placing the top of the 2X4 on the
alternator bracket against the engine worked well.
Lift enough to give you clearance to remove the old engine mount and
install the new ones.  As per Audi norms, "installation is reverse of
removal."  One "gotcha" that happened to me..... One of bottom motor
mounts bolts was so corroded that I spun the welded-pressed in nut that
the bolt goes through.  Needed an extra set of hands to hold the bolt
while I turned the nut from the top.  Replaced it, but this time I put
the bolt in from the top and the nut on the bottom....for when I do this
again in ten years.  

BCNU,
Cobram at Juno.Com
http://www.geocities.com/cobramsri/index.html


On Mon, 05 Nov 2001 09:18:31 -0700 "David Saad" <dsaad at bmailed.com>
writes:

> It also looks like you either have to make a custom wrench to remove 
> the top bolt of the mount, or remove the exhaust manifolds. I priced 
> the gaskets for the manifolds and found that they are $27 APIECE and
you 
> need 8 of them - so making a wrench maybe is not so crazy.