[V8] Engine is out!
d saad
dsaad at icehouse.net
Tue Apr 17 12:18:25 EDT 2007
All I remember is that it took a LONG time to get those mounts installed.
All other memories about it have been repressed or purged...
Maybe
some extensive therapy will bring it all back?
Dave (I think
:-)
> d saad" <dsaad at icehouse.net>
writes:
>
>> I did come across a sort of
>>
chicken and egg problem concerning the exhaust headers though - you
>> can not get the manifolds off without lifting the motor a
little, and
>> you can not lift the motor without removing the
motor mount nuts -
> which you
>> can not get to
without removing the manifolds.
>
> Your memory is going
Dave, "only" 5 years or so and thousands of posts
>
later and you've already forgotten. ;-P
>
> The V8Q
archives don't go back this far, so here's a repost:
>
>
From: Cobram at juno.com
> To: dsaad at bmailed.com
> Cc: v8 at audifans.com
> Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 20:56:50
-0500
> Subject: Re: [V8] Engine mounting
>
> No
need to remove anything major. Here's my post of the procedure from
> many moons ago, no archives on the ole V8 list, so they'll be here
now:
>
> Finally got around to changing the long ago
purchased motor mounts on the
> 1990 V8Q. Here is a quick step by
step:
> Remove the bottom engine cover. I suggest using a pair of
bent vice
> grips to hold the rubber vibration dampers on the
engine cover when you
> remove the 10mm nuts holding the cover on.
Remove the two side air
> intakes on top with the same 10mm
socket.
> Remove the heat shields on both sides of the engine
headers. (10mm
> "speed" nuts-like the ones that used to
hold your "Big Wheels" pedals on)
> You'll have JUST
barely enough room to fit a 17mm universal socket (a
> regular
socket with a universal on it will NOT fit) with a THIN extension
> on it over the top motor mount nut through the header pipe on the
right
> side. The Left side top nut can only be removed with a
box end 17mm
> angle wrench. (to get over the sides of the engine
mount.)There isn't
> enough room to get an extension through the
headers on this side.
>
> To remove the bottom bolts on
the motor mounts, loosen the 4 subframe
> bolts and drop the
subframe enough to fit the same 17mm universal on the
> two bottom
nuts. LOTS of penetrating oil recommended, as these bolts get
>
tight, and they are LONG. Once the nuts and bolts are off the motor
> mounts, lift the engine up with a jack.
> The best place
I've found for lifting the left side is to place a 2X4 on
> the
jack and lift with the top of the 2X4 on the nuts that hold the AC
> compressor on. For the right side, placing the top of the 2X4 on
the
> alternator bracket against the engine worked well.
>
Lift enough to give you clearance to remove the old engine mount and
> install the new ones. As per Audi norms, "installation is
reverse of
> removal." One "gotcha" that happened
to me..... One of bottom motor
> mounts bolts was so corroded that
I spun the welded-pressed in nut that
> the bolt goes through.
Needed an extra set of hands to hold the bolt
> while I turned the
nut from the top. Replaced it, but this time I put
> the bolt in
from the top and the nut on the bottom....for when I do this
>
again in ten years.
>
> BCNU,
>
Cobram at Juno.Com
> http://www.geocities.com/cobramsri/index.html
>
>
> On Mon, 05 Nov 2001 09:18:31 -0700
"David Saad" <dsaad at bmailed.com>
> writes:
>
>> It also looks like you either have to make a custom
wrench to remove
>> the top bolt of the mount, or remove the
exhaust manifolds. I priced
>> the gaskets for the manifolds
and found that they are $27 APIECE and
> you
>> need 8
of them - so making a wrench maybe is not so crazy.
>
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