[V8] Track F/R

32vquattro allanvega at adelphia.net
Mon Apr 16 23:20:30 EDT 2007


Sorry Jack, but Ingo never stated that spacers affected how the suspension works. His exact quote was
 "Careful there, buddy! When you're adding spacers, you're effectively
 changing the suspension geometry, even if only slightly."

to which my response was "......Simply widening track doesn't affect anything 
but the load on the wheel bearings....."

Perhaps I should have said widening the trac has no "ill" effect on the suspension,cept for the wheel bearings. But since we were already talking about ill effects, I guess I felt everyone knew what I meant. My bad. No where did I state that widening the trac had no affect on the handling.  I mean come on man, why would I have purchased them if they didn't improve the handling. The H&R race springs with a spring rate of 350lbs front and 300lbs rear should negate any spring rate loss do to the lever action of the spacers. As for flipping the tie rods, well you got me there. It was something I didn't put a whole lot of thought into, but it did seem logical. I guess i have a few options. 1 Fill tapered hole with weld and re-taper from the bottom (hard way) or 2. bore out the taper, and use none tapered tie rods from later Audi's found  here---->  
http://www.ecodetuning.com/shop/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=102 

Don't know if this will work, but I will let the list know if it doesn't. Al

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: J123fs at aol.com 
  To: allanvega at adelphia.net ; ingo.rautenberg at gmail.com ; jward.v8 at gmail.com 
  Cc: v8 at audifans.com ; David.Coleman at blackrock.com 
  Sent: Monday, April 16, 2007 9:03 PM
  Subject: Re: [V8] Track F/R


  I'm not sure I agree Ingo.  Simply widening track doesn't affect anything 5/2007 6:43:10 P.
  but the load on the wheel bearings. Lowering a car would (and does) have an 
  effect on the front control arm, steering arm,and axle's. I have been 

  Sorry Al,
  Ingo is correct. Widing your track DOES affect how the suspension works. 
  You are correct, it does not effect the static geometry, but as I have an effect on the roll center of the car......and to say it does not effect the handling on the car is factually incorrect. 
  It also makes the front springs effective rate lower by a fair bit, as you are making the lever arm acting on the struts and springs longer. This too also effects handling.
  I had an interesting off list exchange about this recently, and in the middle of the MASSIVE Northeaster we where getting here on Cape Ann ran the numbers on SusProg3D, while watching it gust to over 70 mph on the anemometer. 
  On our cars changing the track 25 mm lowers the roll center 4%. Dropping the car an inch or so does about the same thing- but you then tempt the pothole gods. This can and does effect the suspension. I could not accurately figure out the spring rate change as it was way too S#$%^tty to venture outside to measure the control arm- (VW rabbit/Porsche 944/944tT control arm - same length and articulation angles already in my database) but on a car already in the database changing the track 25 mm changes the effective spring rate by 7+%. Not chickenfeed numbers wise. You COULD argue that it's not apples to apples, but the Audi C-Arm IS longer, so I bet the numbers are even higher.
  I would be worried about the CV's- I have seen every brand of car racing with lowered springs decrease the life of NEW CV's by 75%+. The issue isn't the static position, but as the suspension goes through it's range of motion and it runs out of length. Most guys who change their geometry, change the length of the axles also. You HAVE to.
  I would like too see the tie rod end inverted- this makes a LOT of sense when it comes to bumpsteer on an lowered car with such a highly mounted steering rack, but will it work?
  I just replaced a split braided brake line (yes it happens, thankfully I was going slow) and spent a good deal of time planning my subframe upgrade along with tie rod ends, ect while replacing the hose, and I'm not too sure you could reverse the taper on the strut arm without welding and re-machining the thing to accept the tie rod end upside down. Do you know something I do not?
  Jack

     






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