[V8] Distributor Rotor Installation

[Scott Simmons]

Thanks.

Left bank went on as easy as could be hoped for.  I had placed a pair of 
locking pliers around the rotor and hit those pliers gently with a small 
hammer.  This loosened the rotor enough to just slip off with a good 
tug.  Remembering how all the wires were folded and ran was the hardest 
part.

Right bank?  Eh... well... I removed and set the right coil out of the 
way and managed to get the cap off easy enough but the rotor would not 
budge.  I couldn't pry it off due to the hall effect piece right 
underneath it.  After about 15-20 minutes of frustration, I broke the 
damn thing off.  The insides appear black, as if this one was glued on, 
while the other was not.

Both my old caps looked the same and had same part #'s.  The new ones I 
ordered in were one like the old ones, and one with a longer skirt and 
notch cut out for the hall effect sensor.  It went on easily enough and 
a happy helping of dielectric grease to all connections was not passed by.

I spent about $140 on distributor caps and rotors.  That has to be a 
record for a non-prancing pony car.

~Scott S.

Ingo Rautenberg wrote:

> Yup. Bob's right.  No glue necessary.
>
> Ingo
>
>
> On Aug 23, 2007, at 2:48 PM, Korn, Bob wrote:
>
>> Glue is not necessary with the push on type rotors. This was a factory
>> assembly method as they looked at the distributors as a component  to be
>> replaced as a complete assembly.
>> Bob
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: v8-bounces at audifans.com [mailto:v8-bounces at audifans.com] On  
>> Behalf
>> Of Scott Simmons
>> Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2007 1:32 PM
>> To: V8 Audi Fans
>> Subject: [V8] Distributor Rotor Installation
>>
>> Should I apply glue when installing a new dizzy rotor?  If so, what
>> type?
>>
>> This is, obviously, for the glue-on rotor, not the set-screw style.
>>
>> ~Scott S.
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>
>
>