[V8] new radiator

[d saad]

I guess I should have reminded you I have the 5-speed.

And -
several of you have asked where I got the radiator - 

www.importpartsspec.com

Ask for Rick

Dave

> Since archives searching is so lame, here's Cobram's description
including
> using the cooler lines for draining.  He says the
cooler lines won't drain
> the sump.  If you can't get the drain
plug off, maybe one of those
> extractors with its tube run down
the filler tube into the pan would do
> that part of the job. 
Your best fill is to use the filler tube.  You
> don't want to be
reinstalling those cooler lines when they're full of oil.
> 
>   ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
> 
>   >#1,
replace fluid with a good synthetic, MobilOne Synthetic ATF (about
>>$5 a quart) is one of the best.
>>
>>If
you've never done it before, it might be a good idea to change/check
>>the filter.   To get the pan off you'll have to remove the
crossover
>>pipe
>>for the exhaust, have some bungee
cords handy to hang the crossover so
>>that you don't have to
disconnect the O2 sensor.  Don't mix up the
>>exhaust
doughnuts, they're two different sizes.  By draining the pan
>>you'll only get about 3 quarts of fluid out, some people like
to
>>fill/drain several times until the mixture thins out to a
high
>>percentage of new fluid.
>>
>>First time I changed mine the filter was spotless so I don't
change the
>>filter with the fluid every time (IF the old fluid
is clean.)  I change
>>the fluid by removing the two
transmission cooler lines that go into the
>>radiator, it takes
a 10mm socket (I replaced the factory allens),
>>extension and
universal to get these off, a 13mm for the long bolt that
>>holds the lines at the compressor.
>>You might want
to have some O rings handy if you want to change them,
>>I've
reused them several times with no leaks, just clean hole in
>>radiator well and grease them a little.  Also a Hex driver for
the
>>trans. pan.
>>
>>With the lines out
of the radiator and hanging down into a bucket and
>>the
dipstick open, have a 2nd person start the car.  The fluid will pump
>>right out into the bucket in less than 30 seconds.  As soon as
the
>>stream of old fluid stops (usually get a little sputter)
turn the car
>>off.  You will want to make sure you shut it
right down as soon as the
>>flow stops.
>>Then
remove the plug from the trans. pan (drains about 2 qt.) and let
>>the lines hang low until the fluid stops siphoning out (about a
half
>>hour.) Put everything back, fill with about 7 quarts,
start it up and
>>cycle through the gears,  you can check the
dipstick after the trannie
>>is up to operating temperature (if
the engine oil temp is up to normal,
>>it's a safe bet the
trannie fluid is too.)
>>
>>It will usually take 8
quarts to fill using this procedure.
>>
>
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
> 
> d saad
<dsaad at icehouse.net> wrote:
> 
> 
> I got my
new radiator last night - and it is an exact OEM replacement.
>
Same manufacturer, same look, same everything.
> It cost about
$100
> more than the modine (as reported by other listers) unit,
but it fit right
> in. Sounds like it is well worth the extra
money for proper form and
> function.
> 
> My
current problem is transmission oil. I lost some,
> and want to
change it all out with the OEM stuff - which I have. Problem
> is,
the drain plug is covered by a dirt deflector plate on the
>
transmission - which can not be removed without first removing the
> crossover pipe - which is a PITA that I just went through. I am
wondering
> if I can suck it out through the cooler lines, and
also put the new oil
> back in by forcing it in the return line?
Anyone know which is which? I
> assume the oil pump suction line
is the bottom of the cooler - right?
>