[V8] Alignment specs
d saad
dsaad at icehouse.net
Tue May 22 18:38:53 EDT 2007
On the V8, just think about how the motor mounts work. They are designed
to support weight but not tension. If you lift the front end up by the
bell housing, you are lifting the weight of the car with four rubber
mounts. When I replaced my old motor mounts, I pulled out the motor mount
stud with my fingers - it was that rotten. Or - maybe someone lifted the
car improperly?? Who knows. The same goes for the control arm. I have done
this myself - sometimes you have to, but the sub-frame end of the control
arm is a rubber doughnut. They are pretty tough, but this is a big strain
in a direction they were not designed for.
And - these cars are
not unusual in this respect. Any uni-body car has this issue.
Dave
> Ah... Good to know. Fortunately, I've
only ever jacked the V8 up at the
> jackpoints, and always use a
block of wood between the jack and the car.
> And jackstands under
the control arm mount...
>
> I've always been tentative
about lifting a car under the rear diff (or
> the bellhousing on
FWD cars), but I guess I've just never analyzed why I
> felt that
way.
>
> -dave-
>
>
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>>
From:
v8-bounces at audifans.com
>> [mailto:v8-bounces at audifans.com] On
Behalf Of d saad
>> Sent: Tuesday, May 22, 2007 3:39 PM
>> To: v8 at audifans.com
>> Subject: Re: [V8] Alignment
specs
>>
>>
>>
>> First off,
if they don't put up the extensions, and hit the
>> lift
points, they just lift the car by whatever is hanging
>>
lowest. They will cave in the floor pan, (happened) bend up
>>
the cross member (happened) bend up the exhaust (happened).
>>
>> Then if monkey boy uses a floor jack, there are
not many
>> places you can safely lift a V8 without damage.
Basically,
>> you have the designated lift points. If they lift
by the
>> tranny or crossmember - which seem to be favorites -
you will
>> have some serious damage.
>>
>> My ford owners manual says in great big letters to never
lift
>> by the differentials. Have you ever noticed how many
trucks
>> leak oil where the axle tubes attach to the diff? GM
trucks
>> have a problem with axle seals blowing out. I am sure
this is
>> why. These are simply not designed as lift points
and cannot
>> take the stress. If you want to lift the front of
a V8 with a
>> floor jack, the only place I would do it is on
the sub-frame
>> rear bolt head.
>>
>>
These guys do serious damage to
>> their customers cars every
day - but the customer never finds
>> out until something fails
down the road.
>>
>> Dave
>>
>>
>> > OK
>> I'm going to sound a bit
like a doofus, but what was the major
>> >
>>
concern about the way these guys lifted the car? The
"triangulated"
>> > tippy-ness, or something
more
>> inherent?
>> >
>> >
<Anonymous>
>> >
>> >
>>
>
>> >> -----Original Message-----
>>
>>
>> >> Kinda reminds me of Saturday when I went
to Peerless tire
>> to have my
>> >> summer
tires mounted in the Avant.
>> >>
>> >>
I pulled up next to one of those hydraulic things that lifts right
>> >> off the ground about 3 feet, not knowing what they
had
>> going on and
>> >> thinking they would
move it to that before
>> doing
>> >> the
tires.
>> >>
>> >> I left the keys
>> in the ignition and walked inside for a
>> >>
minute or two and
>> when I came back out, my car was
completely
>> >> off the ground
>> on big
hydraulic jacks, one lifting at each
>> >> front jack
>> point, the 3rd under the rear diff.
>> >>
>> >> Sweet.
>> >>
>> >>
Ed
>> >>
>> >> On 5/22/07, d saad
>> <dsaad at icehouse.net> wrote:
>> >>
>
>> >> >
>> >> > I always
print the specs from the bently and hand them
>> to
>> >> the tech at
>> >> > the tire
shop.
>> >> > I am now starting to go back over their
work and
>> re-tighten
>> >> bolts to
>> >> > factory specs. It
>> does not matter
how many times you ask - they are
>> >> > going
>> to do what they always do. If they over or under tighten
>> >>
>> > important parts, they may slip or
even break.
>> >> > I
>> still have to
>> >> > stand there while they put my car on the
>> rack for a tire
>> >> rotation to
>> >> > make sure the
>> fool does not smash
in the floor pan. This is the one
>> >> >
>> area where I can not DIY - and I hate it. You are totally
>> >> at
>> the mercy
>> >> >
of some idiot who just learned the trade this
>> week.
>> >> >
>> >> > If they ruined a set
of
>> >> > tires, I would not be bashful in asking
for
>> replacements.
>> >> >
>>
>> > And -
>> >>
>> > to partially
answer your question - are your sub-frame
>> >>
>> bushings good,
>> >> > and bolts properly
torqued?
>> >> >
>> >> > Dave
>> >> >
>> >>
>> > >
>> >> > >
>> >> > > I did many
new
>> front suspension (and rear) pieces so an alignment
>> >> > was
>> in
>> >> >
> order. 1,000 miles later I'm really wearing my
>>
front
>> >> > tires on the inner
>>
>> > > edges.
>> Neg camber problem. Car goes
down
>> >> > the road straight
>> with
no
>> >> > > pulls
>> >> > >
what so
>> ever. I pull
>> >> > out the
alignment measurements on the
>> print out and
>>
>> > > all seem in
>> >> > spec.
>> Then I look at the Car model and it says 90 Quattro!
>> >> >
>> >
>> >> >
They aligned the V8 on 90 specs. Interestingly
>> only one
front is
>> >> > > 'technically' out of proper
spec
>> (and the 2 rears
>> >> slightly) and
the
>> >> >
>> other
>> >>
> > front just in, but even it is noticeably
>> worn.
Tires and
>> >> > rims are stock.
>>
>> >
>> > Does any one have a preferred alignment
spec
>> >> > other
>> than in the middle
of
>> >> > > the specified ranges for the
>> V8?
>> >> > > thx
>> >>
> > Mike
>> >>
>> > >
>> >> > >
>> >> > >
>> >>
>> > >
>> >> >
>> >>
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