[V8] Steering questions

[Scott Simmons]

I've tried local industrial outlets for equivalents, but I'll keep trying.

The rack most probably leaks already but it doesn't ever reach the 
ground and I'm not going to be investing in a new rack nor the work 
hours to change it on a car this vintage---especially at the low 
"failure level" at which the rack is currently operating.

I'm curious about flushing because there is some Mobil Syn ATF mixed in 
with the Pentosin that helped stop leaking at the rack.  Is it safe to 
assume that most of the fluid will be drained out through the pump, 
resevoir, and lines?

To get all the lines rebuilt, how much does Spokane cost and how many 
days turn-around?  Starting this project leaves me without a car (and 
wife growls at the idea of car sharing) so it'd have to be quick.

Thanks,
Scott S.

Dave Saad wrote:

>I bought a 5 gallon bucket of Chevron RYKON 32 mineral hydraulic oil.  
>If you experience lots of days under say 10 degrees F, then you might  
>want to think about RYKON 16. Other than that, I see no problems at  
>all with this oil.  The 32 weight is fine, it just takes a few  
>seconds to loosen up on a really cold day.  This oil is available  
>everywhere - try a heavy equipment dealer.
>
>Having a big bucket of oil makes the flushing out real simple too. I  
>made the steering return hose extra long and located an automatic  
>transmission cooler inline filter (generic part from NAPA) over the A/ 
>C dryer canister.  I drained the system every few months until the  
>oil stayed clean - which it has been for a long time now.  I replaced  
>the first filter after about a year, the second will probably last  
>the life of the car.
>
>The pressure hoses are probably all going to fail.  You may as well  
>do them at once.  Spokane hose is great, but be sure they weld on new  
>hose barbs.  The repair will fail if they don't.  They know about  
>this, but remind them anyway.  Their service and turnaround time is  
>great.
>
>SInce you are this far in, I would recommend taking a hard look at  
>the steering rack too.  If it is leaking, have it rebuilt.  It  
>probably needs a boot and replacing it now may save you a rack  
>rebuild later.  It is a PITA job,  but you will already have the  
>hydraulic lines off.  Having done this job myself,  the trick is to  
>have enough long extensions for your ratchet that you can take the  
>hose union bolts off from the passenger side wheel well.  The other  
>thing I did was to remove both ignition coils and the fuel lines by  
>the right coil.
>
>Dave
>
>
>On Apr 23, 2008, at 1:04 AM, Scott Simmons wrote:
>  
>
>>I'm going to be resealing my steering pump here soon and had a few
>>questions:
>>
>>1) I was thinking of having the lines rebuilt/sealed "while I'm in
>>there."  What are Spokane's prices and turn-around times?
>>
>>2) What's the best way to flush the system after putting everything  
>>back
>>together?
>>
>>3) Where's the cheapest place to buy Pentosin (or equal) fluid on the
>>internet?  There are no local outlets.
>>
>>Thanks,
>>Scott S.
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>
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