[V8] Undercar Overhaul

[Jason Wilkerson]

> Driveshaft:
> 
>  - I recall reading some specific notice about reinstalling, besides
> "reverse of removal" -- does this ring a bell?  I will be replacing the
> bolts, but that's due to the air chisel removal method required by a
> few.

--- I think you are supposed to mark the shaft in relationship to the flange before removal - I
guess it is a balance thing.  That is all I know about that.


> -- There seems to be a bit of play in the CV joint at the rear of the
> drive shaft.   Has anyone had one explode?  It looks like a c-clip holds
> it on to the shaft end - is it that easy to replace?  Worth the bother?
> Driveline slop while driving is only apparent if you're not used to the
> car, and I doubt it's from that joint anyway...

--- I don't think the cv itself should have that much play - the diff does though.  Make sure and
grease the center universal while you're in there.
 
> Rear Brakes:
> 
> -- There's a hard brake line that runs from a T-junction at the
> left/rear wheel, inward along the axle, and into what looks like some
> kind of accumulator near the diff.  The line is crusty and needs
> replaced.   To greatly ease describing it to a vendor, can anyone send
> me either (a) the illustration that identifies this line, or (b) a part
> number?

--- No clue?
 
> -- What the heck is that accumulator thing?  Is it a maintenance item?
> Part number?

--- No clue?
 
> --Also inside the left rear wheel, there's a 2" x 2" box that has brake
> lines going in/out, and has a 3" long lever on top, the end of which is
> attached to a thin spring that hangs down and hooks to a fixed point (a
> bracket for the e-brake cable, IIRC).  This box looks to be some
> metering device that keeps the pressure equalized side-to-side, but it's
> entirely mechanical.   What is this thing, and does the fact that the
> lever appears full-on seized have any consequence?  Any intel on this
> would be useful.

--- It is a metering device - but it is for front to rear bias.  It is there to give more brake to
the rear if the car is loaded up.  Every one I have ever see is locked up - seems to work fine to
me, but I would assume that your rear brakes wear faster.
 
> -- Is there any e-brake adjustment needed at the calipers?

--- No but if you take the calipers apart (hard job) you should clean the e-brake arms and
re-grease them - as I have never seen one that was not either partially or fully locked up.  You
can test this by pulling the e-brake, releasing it, then checking if the arms have fully retracted
with the help of the spring.  If they don't retract you need to unhook the cables to check and
make sure that the cables themselves are not sticking.