[V8] Not just headache, butbone numbing cold too!

[toml99 at todomundo.com]

Doesn't sound like lack of torque settings was your problem  
here....SJM Autotechnik site has a great write-up on the suspension/ 
tons of other stuff.....Every nut down there and 1/2 the bolts, say  
"always replace".   What you definately need is a shop manual.  The  
pinch bolt/axle bolt/subframe bushing bolts are "torque to yield"  
bolts, meaning always replace, and are pricey.  I wasn't familiar  
with the "torque to yield" bolts, till I got an Audi, and since all  
the parts were engineered around this concept, I'll go with it.   All  
of the nuts are Nylox and should be replaced/locktited if you can't  
replace.  Don't forget that you have to torque everything with the  
weight of the car on the wheels(which is why I want an oil change pit  
in my upcoming garage, but the city won't allow it).  I dropped the  
wheels on a few layers of 2x10 so I could get under there.  If you  
don't, you'll tear the inner control arm bushings for sure,,, BTDT.   
www.books4cars.com has a paper manual for $240(they show up on ebay  
for much less...), or you could get a copy of the Bentley disc from  
someone who possesses it.  I probably wouldn't even have kept my  
first car if if didn't come with the complete paper manual.  So until  
you do...
Tie rod 44ft/lbs
Sway bar rear nut 81
Sway bar front bushing 77
Inner control arm bolt 63
Axle 148, then 1/4 turn	
Pinch bolt(control arm outer)...48, then 1/4 turn	
Subframe bushing bolt...48, then 1/4 turn

I may have missed something, so don't take this as definative.  The  
fact that these torque's are so precise(not sure why), but if that's  
what the book says, I'll go with it....
Imagine what could have happened on I-94 @ 80 with a bunch of  
friend's in the car when you hit the brakes........I still can't  
believe that it actually popped out, as it's a good struggle to get  
it in.....Tom