[V8] 2231 code hell update....

Cary Christopherson chri0975 at umn.edu
Tue Nov 8 08:19:43 PST 2011


Wouldn't a multimeter be the proper tool to use here? 



dsaad at icehouse.net wrote:

>That may be a valid thing to do - I don't know how that circuit works but
>keep in mind that you are driving un-fused battery voltage INTO an OUTPUT
>of the ECU.  Generally speaking this is a bad thing to do.  It all depends
>on how the circuit works inside the ECU.
>
>I would do a safer test first - put a light bulb (small wattage like maybe
>a marker light bulb) at the connector for the ISV.  If it lights up, the
>wires are good.  If you see it vary with engine speed then the ECU is
>doing its job.  Exactly how bright the bulb should be is an unknown but
>you could try this on two cars and compare results can't you?
>
>I can say that this is a two wire system. It works by varying the voltage
>across the ISV coil which in turn causes an armature inside the ISV to
>rotate in proportion to this voltage.  This should be easily visible with
>the light bulb test.
>
>
>Dave
>
>
>> I'm still getting the code. 
>> in addition I got the carbon canister code today and ISV code...which is
>> different than the ISV control code I'm complaining about.
>>
>> So what Keith suggested to me is to unplug the ISV at the ISV and drive
>> around. If the symptoms are still there then that would eliminate the ISV
>> as being the problem. Next 
>> I'm to run a jumper wire from the jump start post to the power wire at the
>> ISV. If the problem goes away than there is a problem with the power wire.
>> If it doesn't go away I'm to run a jumper wire from the back of the fuse
>> at the fuse block for the ISV to the power wire for the ISV at the coastal
>> connector.
>>  All the above will eliminate whats wrong and whats not.This sound about
>> rite?
>>  Ron
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>
>
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