[Vwdiesel] '91 Jetta TD fuel pump leak

[Sandy Cameron]

At 09:22 AM 8/23/02 -0700, you wrote:
.  But... in order to put the pump back in do
>I need a VW timing, etc tool?

This is simplicity itself. I did this to replace a very leaky front shaft
seal without removing the pump from the engine. Still working fine 3years
and 100,000km later

When you take out the pump, (if you realy HAVE to)
Before you remove anything, unscrew the big plastic bung from the top of the
tranny bell over the flywheel, pull off the valve cover, and rotate the
engine in it's normal direction (do not rotate bacwards more than a few
degrees) untill the 2 cam lobes on #1
(sprocket end) are pointing more or less upwards, and then spot the V-groove
timing mark on the flywheel edge throught the hole. A dab of white paint on
it will make it easier to find it if the engine moves while fooling around.

put a white paint mark on the cam sprocket and the belt at one of the teeth.
Do the same at the pump sprocket.
Since you are going to remove the pump sprocket, using a timing tool is moot
at this point.

Loosen, and remove if you wish, the tensioner. Using coathanger wire, keep
the belt tensioned so it doesn't drop free of the teeth on the crank
sprocket. This is very important throughout the operation.

NOW, using some kind of improvised tool to hold the pump sprocket so you
don't overtension the belt, loosen the pump sprocket bolt. The most likely
disaster scenario here is breaking the pump sprocket trying to remove it. DO
NOT PRY ON IT it's cast, and will shatter.

I made a "special volkswagen tool", which you could buy if you want to, or
perhaps rent from a vw wrench, (you only need it for about 90 seconds) that
hooks into 2 of the holes ON THE INSIDE OF THE SPROCKET NEXT THE HUB.

I found 2 bolts who's heads would just pass through 2 of the large holes in
the sprocket.
I viced them, and using my B&D grinder with a square edge wheel on it, cut a
shallow slot in each, flush with the inside shoulder of the bolt head. This
made a hook that would grab the inside face of the sprocket next the hub. I
used a thick piece of plate with 3 holes appropriately spaced to make a gear
puller, with the addition of a fine thread center bolt and nut. I actually
used the center bolt to set the spacing, and adjusted the nuts on the hook
bolts to apply tension on the sprocket, tightening them equally and evenly
until it was tight. I then whacked the center bolt, pressing on the loosened
sprocket bolt, using a heavy sledge hammer and gentle taps. Works beter than
mighty blows with a light hammer.

Took 2 whacks to break it loose.

Remove all the puller junk and the sprocket bolt, and holding one hand under
to catch the woodruff key, pull the sprocket clear of the shaft and belt,
KEEPING TENSION ON THE BELT SO IT STAYS MESHED WITH THE CAM AND CRANK
SPROCKETS. Tie it there.

Now do whatever you must to your pump. Be cautionsed that if you remove the
top "throttle" springs, you will have a lot of trials getting the lever back
on the shaft in the right position.

To re-assemble without timing tools, ensure the engine has not turned from
dead center, the belt is still engaged at the right spot on the cam
sprocket, and it has not skipped on the crank sprocket (you have never let
it go slack doing all the above).

with the pump installed, insert the key in the shaft slot, worry the
sprocket onto the shaft lined up with the key, and with the paint match
marks lined up on the belt and sprocket, and everything is back where it
started. install the tensioner (or a new one, quite cheap, if the old one
shows any wear or noise when spun) and trial tension the belt.

After you have test run it, recheck the belt tension.
My method, tighten until it's just possible to slide it back and forth on
the pump sprocket a little bit with both hands.

If you have made changes to the pump, or it's position, you may have to do
the stroke measurement thing. I just evaluate by ear, the engine sound with
the cold start advance on and off, to judge where the injection timing
starts on the down stroke.
too much "nailing" sound means too much advance.

If you accidently let the belt slip off the crank sprocket, you will have to
do the whole timing proceedure, which is not rocket science, and can be done
with shop tools. More on that later, if it becomes necessary.

Sandy

ps: are you in eastern canada? I'm near Ottawa